the last, red-hot American week
Oh, how very real is the difficulty of leaving behind one life for another! Saying goodbye to Red Gate Farm, especially with its beautiful gate and fence restored to more even than their usual beauty was especially heart-wrenching this time. The last days there were filled with heat, humidity, a revolving door of hospitality, family, and friends.
We were welcomed back home from our Road Trip with Susan’s beautiful flowers. What friends she and her family have become!
Of course, part of the drama at Red Gate Farm this summer was the nurturing (nearly completely failed, but more on that later) of the sourdough starter I had so carefully given life to in Iowa. Yes, dear readers, I packed it up in my suitcase and actually fed it and watered it on our journey from Iowa to Connecticut.
All right, all right, before any of you jumps in to say, as John and my brother in law Joel say constantly, rolling their eyes, that I tend to get… obsessed with things, let me stop you. Yes, there were the chickens, I’ll give you that. But they deserved my devotion. And I suppose I did get a tiny bit, well, devoted to knitting, last summer. I get ideas!
This summer, it might be verging on accurate to say that I have been obsessed with sourdough. Creating a starter, being given a starter, maintaining it, baking with it. I have been a bit, just a BIT, well, devoted to the topic. I’d actually prefer to call these activities of mine “intermittent feverish compulsions,” as the late, great cookery writer Robert Canzoneri said in his absolutely epic memoir, “Potboiler”. That’s so much more descriptive than “obsessions.”
In any case, the road to sourdough success has been paved with a series of unmitigated disasters. This starter seemed, at first, to be no exception. It had been so lively in Iowa! But then it just pooped out. At Red Gate Farm, I turned out loaf after loaf of disastrous, flat, unbearably chewy yuck loaves.
Not content with sampling these failures on my own, I made all my nearest and dearest taste them as well. I spent hours, absolutely hours, on Facebook and iMessage and email with all my sourdough gurus (believe me, there are people whose devotion to this topic make me look like a distracted slacker. But it just didn’t work.
(Fast-forward to London where, upon emerging from my suitcase having exploded in its glass jar in a Ziplock bag, thankfully, the starter revealed itself not to be dead after all! After a few days’ rest and feeding, just look what resulted.
See, it behooves one to persist in one’s intermittent feverish compulsions.)
But back to the Farm and our summer’s end.
First of all, the HEAT. The HEAT! The air positively steamed, at times. Not that I minded. It was beautiful.
Life sizzled with humidity. If you were sitting still in the shade, it was very pleasant. But if you changed one of those things — moving around in the shade, or sitting still in the sun — it was overwhelming! Parking lots, forget it. But ensconced in a deck chair on the terrace with a book and something cold to drink, it was American Summer pure and simple. And then in the evenings, it was cool enough to enjoy dinner with guests.
And my goodness, did we have guests! In our continuing attempt to give back as much as we could to everyone who had shouldered the burden of a tornado-stricken Red Gate Farm, we invited and invited and invited.
Mark popped by one fine afternoon, “just for a quick minute, I don’t really have much time…” (His t‑shirt says “Luck Is Not a Plan,” by the way, which explains Mark in a complete moment.)
But he’d brought Taylor along, and they stayed for a good long chat. She has become, seemingly overnight, an absolutely joyful, mature, delightful girl with a twinkle in her eye and a wicked sense of humor.
By the end of the afternoon we had concocted a plan for dinner, the following evening.
Of course being Mark, he couldn’t just show up and be fed. Oh, no, earlier in the day he had made quite the most special delivery that’s ever been made to Red Gate Farm. Burgers, from lambs he had raised, butchered (or as he says, “dispatched”), ground in his envy-making commercial grinder, turned into patties with his special patty-making machine.
The resulting burgers, with my special espresso/paprika/garlic rub, were the last word in burgers. On my homemade potato rolls, simply divine.
Here, again, for you is Orlando’s exceptional recipe for these rolls. I love his “voice.”
Konnie captured the peaceful pre-dinner table for Instagram.
A proper feast! Roasted salmon for the pescatarians among us, and then summer’s discovery of grilled corn.
The Lyons popped by, which increased our number by five! Gabriel and I shared a secret. I think it was about dessert.
Regina, Egbert and Judy came for another leisurely evening that started with champagne…
… and morphed into enjoying butterflied, deep-fried jumbo shrimp and my homemade cocktail sauce (no sugar, tons of horseradish and lemon zest).
Butterflied Deep-Fried Jumbo Shrimp with Homemade Cocktail Sauce
(serves about 6)
for shrimp:
48 jumbo shrimp
1/2 cup/90g plain flour
2 eggs, beaten
about 1/2 cup/90g cornmeal
about 1 cup/100g Panko breadcrumbs
about 1 cup/100g Matzoh meal
2 tbsps paprika
2 tbsps garlic salt
2 tbsps onion powder
fresh black pepper
enough vegetable oil to deep-fry
for sauce:
1 cup/250ml sugar-free ketchup
3‑inch piece fresh, peeled horseradish root, or about 4 tbsps prepared horseradish root (but not the creamy kind)
zest and juice of 1 lime
fresh black pepper and sea salt to taste
For the shrimp, peel (but leaving on the tail if possible as a “handle”), devein and cut deeply along the body but not all the way through. This is called “butterflying.” Shake the shrimp in the flour, coat in the egg. Mix all the remaining dry ingredients and place in a large bag or bowl. About 6 shrimp at a time, shake or roll in the dry ingredients.
Heat the oil to about 350F/180C or until a piece of breadcrumb dropped in fries instantly. In batches of 6 shrimp, deep fry for about 90 seconds or until just cooked, and drain batches on paper towel. Serve right away with the sauce, for which you simply mix all the ingredients and then provide each guest with a spoonful of it in an individual ramekin.
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We could feel the days getting palpably shorter, dinner in the approaching dark of late summer.
We could feel, as well, the gradual acceptance of life without Rollie, something no one ever wanted to anticipate. His presence in our lives, the constant source of wisdom and experience, the endless supply of energy , his regular appearances at times when I was at Red Gate Farm alone, to help me replace a propane tank, test the generator, spread a driveway of gravel, or just share a cup of coffee — all these things were precious to us. Judy is just as precious, and the most important thing in the world is that she know how we intend to keep her as close as we can.
One of the joys of Red Gate Farm life is coming in from running errands and finding gifts. Eggs from Mark, blueberry cake from Judy, apple cake from Susan, recipes from both.
Jill and her family came for one last evening, on the second anniversary of Dad’s death. Joel bravely popped a cork into the pond and we all shared a glass. “What if I LIKE IT?” Jane hissed in a 13-year-old whisper to me. “No problem, you just have eight years to wait.”
Mark had brought by a HUGE chicken, so we experimented and sous-vided it, then finished it off on the grill. Note to self: don’t bother sous-viding a chicken. It was delicious, but that’s a silly method for a whole chicken. What a dinner! Jill’s excellent pickle-laden potato salad went down a treat, not to mention the ubiquitous devilled eggs, whenever Jill’s family come round.
For Jill, who is dairy-free, I’ve come up with a perfect innovation for the Caprese Salad, of which there is never enough. I simply segregate the tomatoes from the mozzarella, and sprinkle over fresh basil, instead of pesto. Alternatively, I experimented with Parmesan-free pesto, and while I prefer it cheesy, obviously the important thing is the basil. We had such a good evening.
Finally, there was no denying it: it was time to go “home,” whatever that means. Time to tidy up the kitchen…
… tidy away all the projects that had lived on the dining table in these weeks of deliciously eating out of doors…
… tidy away all the books that had been taken out of shelves in the hopeful expectation of long, boring afternoons that never actually happened.
The last, marathon, rather hateful day of laundry, turning some things one (timers and dehumidifier), others off (water), emptying the fridge and cupboards, picking up the rental car, filling the car with mothballs in a never-successful attempt to discourage mice, and finally bringing in the Red Gate Farm sign that Dad made so many years ago.
Goodbye for yet another summer. We’ll be back after Christmas, trading one life for another yet again.