pep­pered with flavor

Isn’t this an incred­i­bly evoca­tive pho­to­graph of an ordi­nary red bell pep­per? I did­n’t take it, so I can wax lyri­cal about the qual­i­ty. I end­ed up spend­ing quite a bit of time brows­ing through the pho­tog­ra­pher’s web­site, and you should give it a try too. Plus to a non-speak­er of the lan­guage, there’s some­thing very amus­ing about peo­ple’s com­ments in Swedish!

Last night I was so not in the mood to cook din­ner: tired for no good rea­son, John was out at a busi­ness din­ner (don’t get too excit­ed: it was the good­bye din­ner for his for­mer boss, whose retire­ment was meant to give John the job that The Oth­er Guy got which result­ed in the lat­est install­ment of Ser­i­al Job Quit­ting). Plus after a nice snack at Patis­serie Valerie with Becky and Anna, Avery decid­ed she could not live with the cur­rent home­work organ­is­er file in her back­pack, so we braved the crowds, the over­whelm­ing per­fume, and gen­er­al off-putting com­mer­cial­ism that is Sel­f­ridges, perus­ing their sta­tionery depart­ment. Not my favorite way to spend the after­noon. So I had visions of tak­ing Avery to some local piz­za joint and relax­ing. But bless her heart, she said, “Could you make that spinach and red pep­per pas­ta I like so much?” and when I hes­i­tat­ed she wailed, “You should be glad I love your cook­ing! And it’s a child, ask­ing for spinach!” I relent­ed. And it is so extreme­ly deli­cious, plus per­fect­ly good for you too. A bit of labor in chop­ping, but think of it as your moment of zen.

Far­falle with Spinach and Roast­ed Red Pepper
(serves four)

1 pound far­falle (I pre­fer De Cecco)
3 tbsps olive oil
3 large red bell peppers
1/2 pound baby spinach leaves, washed
4 cloves gar­lic, minced
1 red onion, fine­ly chopped
1 hand­ful flat pars­ley, chopped
1 1/2 tbsps Ital­ian seasoning
2 soup-size cans peeled plum toma­toes, drained and quartered
sprin­kling chilli flakes
1 tsp salt
grat­ed pecori­no or parme­san cheese

Put water on to boil for pas­ta and pre­heat your oven to broil. Line a cook­ie sheet with alu­mini­um foil (for easy cleanup) and cut your pep­per down the sides in three slices, tak­ing care to dis­card seeds. Press the slices as flat as they can get, skin side up, onto the cook­ie sheet and place under broil­er. While you keep an eye on them as they roast, start chop­ping the gar­lic and onion and throw them in a skil­let or wok, with the olive oil; toss in the Ital­ian sea­son­ing. It can all wait in the cold skil­let while you get the spinach and pars­ley chopped. The cut you want with your spinach is called a “chif­fon­ade,” which in French means lit­er­al­ly “made into a rag,” and you get it by pil­ing the leaves (stems removed) on top of each oth­er and slic­ing them into rib­bons. This is an extreme­ly sat­is­fy­ing job for your basic OCD per­son, or a slight­ly bipo­lar per­son who is hav­ing a down day. I speak as an author­i­ty on both these diagnoses.

When the pep­pers’ skins are nice­ly wrin­kled and slight­ly black­ened, take them off the sheet with tongs and place either in a brown paper bag, or on a paper tow­el that is large enough to wrap around them. Make the lit­tle pack­age as air­tight as you can. After a minute or so, unwrap and you should be able to peel the skins off the pep­pers and dis­card them. Then slice the pep­pers into bite-size pieces and put aside with the toma­toes. I know I am, if not alone, unusu­al in dis­lik­ing com­mer­cial­ly-roast­ed red pep­pers. It’s because they are pre­served gen­er­al­ly in oil or vine­gar, and the oil makes them slimy to my mind, and I don’t do slimy. At all. And the vine­gar adds quite an unnec­es­sary bite to them. I sup­pose I could rinse them. But why? It’s easy to roast pep­pers, and if I had a gas flame I could hold them in tongs and turn them around until done, also a nice zen task. But if you like slimy, hats off to you and this dish is a bit easier.

Once your pep­pers and spinach and pars­ley are chopped, put your pas­ta in the boil­ing water and you’ve got 11 min­utes to make your sauce. Turn on the heat under the onion and gar­lic and saute until soft, then add the toma­toes and give it a stir. Add the salt and chill­is and check your pas­ta. When it is just near­ly ten­der, throw your spinach and pars­ley into the sauce and stir through. Pour your pas­ta through a colan­der in the sink and then, with­out giv­ing it the shake you nor­mal­ly would, throw it in the skil­let with the sauce. This leaves a lit­tle bit of cook­ing water to moist­en the sauce. Serve with the grat­ed cheese, lots of it. Last night we analysed why the dish needs so much cheese, and came to the con­clu­sion that it is made up of very sim­ple fla­vors, and no fat to speak of, so the cheese adds depth.

I can­not explain it, but my child adores this dish. She spears each lit­tle bowtie and then scoops all the veg­etable bits off the plate with rel­ish. We both agree that it isn’t quite as pret­ty as you would think, when you pic­ture red and green, and if any­one has sug­ges­tions on how it could be made pret­ti­er, I’d wel­come them.

It’s one of those days in Lon­don where the sky is hang­ing low and heavy, and the weath­er peo­ple say drea­ry things like, “The day will progress with occa­sion­al rain­show­ers, patch­es of grey, and per­haps the odd bright spell, but with increas­ing cloud through­out the after­noon.” A typ­i­cal Lon­don day, in fact, which could use a good dose of com­e­dy class to wake it up…

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