Christmas Eve Oyster Stew
(serves 8 generously)
6 tbsps butter
4 tbsps flour
6 cloves garlic, minced
6 stalks celery, finely minced
1 white onion, finely minced
8 pints shucked oysters with their liquor
1 tbsp celery salt (however fancy you can go, or not, is fine)
1 quart whole milk
1 pint heavy cream
to taste: more celery salt, Tabasco, lemon juice, pepper
In a large heavy stockpot, melt the butter, then add flour and cook till frothy but not brown. Add garlic, celery and onion and saute until slightly soft, then add oysters with liquor. Stir over medium heat until the edges of the oysters curl up (this means they are nearly cooked). Add celery salt, milk and cream, and heat gently until the broth is hot. Try not to let it boil, but if it does, whisk it thoroughly to prevent any curdling. Season with more celery salt, Tabasco, lemon juice and pepper till it’s just to your taste. I must warn you: a great deal of tasting may be necessary, but try to avoid getting a bowl to taste. Limit yourself to a teaspoon at a time. Glorious. Even better if you can make it a day ahead and bury the stockpot, firmly lidded, in a snowdrift overnight. Serve with plenty of oyster crackers.