a week in the country
Just a week ago, we woke up on our first morning at Red Gate Farm, early as usual since we felt it was five hours later, and went for our traditional first-morning, wet-feet, dewy inspection of our domain. The newly-repaired fence was very pleasing to the eye, and the house itself nestled in its place in the road with calm morning peace.
And then John’s voice broke through the stillness.
“Kristen, come here!”
“Where are you? I’m just going to see how deep the pond is.”
“No, come here now, to the chicken house!”
Because there were THESE.
Whoa! Was this what was meant by the many mysterious messages from our local friends as our arrival approached? Messages like, “Hope you don’t mind getting up early!” and “You have new neighbors!”
Eight little girls and a rooster! As the hours of our first day went by, the story trickled down from various friends. Anne and Kate were on their way home from her day camp when the sound of a distressed rooster filled the air, from the top of the hill.
He was wandering around Phillips Farm, surrounded by his coterie of adoring but equally distressed ladies. In what I now think of as the Great Sanford Road Chicken Caper (and I’m devastated I missed it), phone calls alerted about a dozen neighbors who turned up with boxes, nets and finally a dog crate, trying to herd the chickens down the hill to the nearest safe place — our disused but entirely beautiful chicken house.
After some drama in the nearby woods, and under our azalea bush, under our rose bush, and through the day lilies in the front yard, the ladies and gentlemen were rounded up successfully and installed in their new home. Where we awoke to them last Tuesday morning, and began gathering eggs straightaway. It is like a miracle.
Every day has brought more fun with them, more visitors to check on their happiness (total) and our enjoyment of them (even more total).
“People said I should ask you if you wanted them, before just dumping them on you,” Anne said, “but I knew you had always wanted chickens.” All our visitors have uttered variations on this theme. We should have warned you? But we knew…
I sit for untold periods of time just watching them, their antics, their enjoyment of life here at Red Gate Farm.
There is honestly nothing more purely relaxing than plumping down with a book and a cocktail in the evening and following their intensely chickenish antics. For the first few days I had to do this within their chicken house, which was fine, if a bit stinky.
But then John — on the hottest afternoon of the week — acquired some chicken wire (now I know why it’s called that!), and built them this little outdoor pasture, so they could roam a bit but stay safe.
And last night, with Mark and Taylor looking on indulgently, we let them out, OUT properly, for the first time, having got advice from Mike that a week in their house and pasture should be enough for them to know where home is. I’ve never seen any happier creatures in my life!
Avery has referred to this supervised freedom as my “mother hen” routine, which pretty much sums it up. Kate-Across-The-Road (aged 8) and I had a very telling conversation on this topic.
“Kristen, I think we should definitely keep them penned up, where they’ll be safe.”
“Well, Kate, I can see your point, but after all, we can’t keep you penned up, where you’ll be safe. We have to let you roam free. And think of Avery, on her own in our London flat. We can’t keep either of you penned up.”
Small silence.
“Yes, Kristen, but I’m not a chicken, and neither is Avery. We are humans, and we can make intelligent decisions.”
Kate has her own chicks to look after.
Her mom Anne and dad, Dave, are happy to help out with their care.
So the days have passed by in a blur of chicken husbandry, visits from all and sundry in our little sphere of friendship at Red Gate Farm. Of all the things I love about this place — the blue of the sky, the red of the barns, the green of the trees, the white of the fence, the peace and serenity — what I really love most is the knowledge that every day brings visitors. It might be Regina, on Southbury Land Trust Business up the road, happy to take a break for a bit of chicken-spotting.
She was easily persuaded to stay for an impromptu lunch.
To be fair, when the lunch on offer is a bowl of ice-cold pink gazpacho, it’s not hard to do the persuading.
Taylor drops by to show the chickens to her American Girl doll.
Her dad Mark was laden down with produce from their garden. The beets were head and shoulders above their supermarket brethren.
Possibly even more exciting than the beets, though, was a bag full of rabbit livers, which I was more than happy to turn into a smooth, creamy parfait.
Rabbit Liver Parfait
(makes about 2 cups)
8 rabbit livers
4 tbsps butter
1/2 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsps Madeira or Marsala
1 tbsp sour cream
Trim the livers very well, removing all connective tissue and sinews.
Melt the butter in a heavy frying pan and fry the onion and garlic till soft. Add the livers and Madeira and turn the heat down to low. Cook, turning frequently, until just cooked and no longer. Pulse in a food processor with the sour cream, then pass through a fine sieve. This parfait is delicious warm, but also cold.
**********
The rabbit itself turned up a day or two later, and my goodness, it was absolutely wonderful on the grill, with fresh barbecue sauce. I had to watch a YouTube video to teach myself how to joint it, but it was very simple.
Grilled Rabbit with Fresh Barbecue Sauce
(serves 4)
1 large rabbit
1 cup/250 ml ketchup
1/4 cup/65 ml apple cider vinegar
juice of 1 lemon
3 tbsps dark brown sugar
1 tbsp onion powder
1 tbsps garlic powder
sea salt and fresh black pepper to taste
Joint the rabbit per the instructions and plunge into salted water for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, mix all the other ingredients well together, and place half the mixture in a Ziplock bag.
Place the rabbit pieces in the bag and massage well until fully coated.
Heat grill to 375F/180C and arrange the rabbit legs and loin pieces on the grill. Cook for 20 minutes, then turn over and brush with some of the remaining sauce. Add the shoulder pieces and rib pieces to the grill. Cook for 10 minutes, then turn the shoulders and ribs over and brush with the remaining sauce. Cook everything for a further ten minutes.
********
So fantastically delicious! I had been prepared to love the taste and just tolerate the texture, which I had heard could be tough, or dry, or both. But no, the meat was incredibly juicy and tender, and the sauce just the perfect piquant flavor. So summery.
Mike and Lauren stopped by with their little family of three children, to see the chickens and chicks, and to hear what we have been up to since Christmas. Abigail is adjusting beautifully to being the biggest sister.
Lauren wears triple motherhood with perfect aplomb.
Gabriel hovered over Kate’s chicks, hopping about the terrace. “Put back in box, put chicks in box. Worried.”
Jill’s family have come for a hot, sunny summer lunch of tall, messy BLTs and devilled eggs from our very own chickens!
What a luxury to sit with family for an entire afternoon!
I’ve had, finally, success with my toffee ambitions! Twice I tried in London, only to end up with once, some respectably crunchy toffee, but swimming in a bath of pointlessly extra melted butter, and another time not so much extra butter, but a texture like maple sugar candy. I refused to be defeated, however, and one afternoon last week Kate donned her Cooking Camp apron and we gave it our best shot. Score!
I followed this recipe nearly exactly, so I offer it to you with no reservations. The only adjustments I made were minor — I had no whole almonds, so I scattered slivered almonds on the bottom instead, and Kate and I felt the mini chocolate chips were too cute to spread out, so we left them whole. Delicious!
The only thing missing from our wonderful summer holiday at Red Gate Farm is, obviously Avery. She’s happily in our London flat, sending pictures of the cats, asking questions about cooking, travelling to the country to see friends. Somewhere along the line our family summers here evaporated, which is entirely natural and fitting, but makes me nostalgic for the old days when I had Avery all to myself. Ah well, it means that there is something to look forward to, when I return to London in September.
In the meantime, though, I have my chickens, and my revolving door of visitors, and later today, the arrival of my beloved mother for her birthday celebrations, a three-day countryside extravaganza. Ah, Connecticut summers. Heaven.