June flies by
Such pleasant London days as these are, I really have all I could possibly wish for. Exam results are trickling in — 95% in Russian! so thrilling -, the sun is shining enough to make it possible for us to bike to the tennis courts, play as best we can (having Wimbledon coverage to come home to is a bit demoralizing), then bike home. Bellringing has reached a new milestone: I have learned all the physical skills I need to do anything I ever want to do. Now, as my tireless teacher Arnold says, “do that about four thousand more times and you’ll be beginning to know what you’re about.”
Life is good.
One morning my friend Antonella, knitter extraordinaire, stopped by to bring my new jumper: a fine rollneck in the most beautiful shade of blue. We sat for a long time, discussing — as women our age are wont to do — what we are planning to do with the last third of our lives. Children flying the coop, husbands occupied with banking or barristering or Brutalist architecture, depending on the husband, and where shall life take us? So many mothers who threw themselves wholeheartedly into their educations, their careers, and then put them on hold to provide three meals a day plus snacks, moral support and homework supervision. Now what?
Now if I were Antonella, I’d be knitting up a storm. Why should I be her first client? I had better not be her last. She has even, as you see, given me a pair of fluffy cabled handwarmers, knitted from the leftover wool of my rollneck. “Doesn’t it amaze you that you can DO this?” I bleat. “Not really,” she smiles, completely taking her genius in stride. Don’t you love the label? Antonella, too, is a one-off.
More likely than knitting, she will become a school counselor. “It’s one of the few professions where it is actually an advantage to be our age, and to have had children,” she explains. Yes, indeed, how much better to have a wise, compassionate counselor with a few smile lines and a history of guiding her own children through life’s trials, than a fresh-faced youth who’s much closer to BEING a child than raising one.
As for me, Antonella thinks I should be teaching people to cook. There is something in that idea, as I love teaching anyone how to do anything I know, and my own child has so surpassed me in skills that I have nothing left to offer! But I could teach someone to make pizza.
Homemade Pizza With Dolcelatte, Black Olives and Bacon
(dough makes 4 pizzas, toppings make 1 which will serve 2 people)
The first thing to learn about making pizza is that you have to start about four hours before you want to eat, in order to give the dough time to rise, twice. This means that making more dough than you need is a very good idea, because then the second time you want pizza, you have the dough already and can merely pile things upon it.
Making dough could not be easier. This recipe will make enough dough for 4 pizzas.
DOUGH:
500 grams/18 ounces plain flour
1 packet dried yeast granules
1 tbsp Italian seasoning
250 grams/9 ounces warm water
1 tsp olive oil
1 tsp milk
TOPPINGS:
250 grams/1/2 pound-ish Dolcelatte or mild Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
6 strips streaky (American) smoked bacon
handful black oil-cured olives, pitted
handful grated Parmesan
drizzle good olive oil
In a very large bowl, mix together with a fork all the dry ingredients, then mix the water, oil and milk and pour it onto the dry stuff. Mix with a fork and then your hands, bringing together all the bits of flour. If you need a bit more water, just add it in sprinkles. When the dough hangs together and has incorporated all the flour, knead it gently with the ball of your hand, this way and that, turning and squishing, until it is a fine smooth blob. Oil the inside of your bowl completely, put the dough in it and cover the bowl tightly with cling film. Put in a warm place (the back of the top of an Aga is very good, or your laundry room when the dryer is going) for about 2–3 hours until the dough has doubled in size. Uncover and punch the dough down. Cover again and let rise slightly again, for perhaps 1 more hour. It will not rise as much this time.
Brown your bacon in a heavy skillet until crisp, and drain on paper towels. Crumble when cool.
Place your pizza stone in your very hot (220C/425F) oven for at least half an hour before the dough is ready. Now pinch off about 1/4 of the dough and cover your clean countertop with flour, as well as your hands, and the ball of dough, and your rolling pin. Roll the dough out, flouring liberally on top and underneath, until it is the size of your pizza stone. Take the stone from the oven, place the dough on it and bake for about 10 minutes or until thoroughly dry and a bit crisp.
Pile on your toppings as evenly as possible. Drizzle the olive oil over all and bake again until cheese is a bit melty, perhaps another 8–10 minutes.
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I actually offered a day of making pizza to my daughter’s school raffle at Christmas, but the student who won it… never took me up on it. It would have been such fun! Make the dough, and meanwhile teach them to make pesto, and tomato sauce, how to prepare vegetables for pizza, and then pile on the toppings and let them eat it when finished! I still might do that, sometime.
Mostly it is a great comfort to me to know that all my intelligent, kind-hearted girlfriends are feeling much the same way these days, about children flying the coop. I actually feel that there is a syndrome, little-acknowledged, that happens slightly before the famous “Empty Nest.” My nest isn’t empty yet, and I actually feel I’ll be ready for that when it is. What I find hard right now is “Slightly Empty Nest,” where my child is going off for ever longer periods of time to do ever more varied things without me, but she still needs a snack when she gets home and a fully listening ear and a hot water bottle in a chilly bed at night. And someone to watch the Hyde Park Show, no matter whether it is raining or not.
And just when I think life can’t surprise me anymore, as I’m preparing myself for a six-hour day watching Avery watch other people on ponies, a voice says, “Isn’t that Kristen?” and I look up to see my old friend Jennifer, a novelist I met some years ago and had somehow lost touch with! And so what might have been a rather long day of being sprinkled on became a catch-up with someone I really liked, thought of when I shelved her novel on moving day, but forgot to find again. And there she was, mother of the famous Callum, the ONLY boy at the stable, a source of much interest to the girls.
“If I had childhood to live over again, I’d be that only boy at the stable, with all those gorgeous girls!” John always says.
We talked nonstop about what had happened since we saw each other last. Various stages of writer’s block for both of us, uncertainty about what we wanted to do with our writing next, for both of us. “Have you never thought of turning your blog into a sort of book?” Jennifer asked. Another ambition for those Empty Nest years, I think, to plan over a bowl of:
Creamy Celeriac Soup
(serves at least 4)
1 head celeriac (celery root in America)
3 tbsps butter
1 shallot, chopped roughly
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
4 cloves garlic, chopped roughly
splash leftover white wine or champagne
chicken stock to cover celeriac
cream and milk, to taste
sea salt and pepper, to taste
handful chives, minced
Peel the celeriac carefully and cut into 1‑inch cubes. Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan and add the celeriac, shallot, thyme and garlic. Cook until garlic and shallot are soft. Pour in splash of wine. Cover all with chicken stock and simmer for 20 minutes. Blend thoroughly with a hand blender, adding cream and milk if it gets too thick, and until you have the consistency you want. This soup is VELVETY.
Season to taste and sprinkle chives over.
This soup was my reward for having put in a wet, slimy, stinky afternoon at the school Sports Field in order to gather up all the nasty unwanted PE kit we could find, to sort, wash, bleach, dry and iron in order to sell them to the incoming New Girls at their Welcome Tea. Why all we volunteers at Lost Property find this to be fun, I cannot really explain, but once the piles of mismatching boots, the wadded up “white” PE shirts, the grimy lacrosse sticks and wrinkled games skirts had all been cleaned and organised, the sense of satisfaction was tremendous! It was a lovely afternoon yesterday, watching the New Girls (and their parents, hard to tell who looked more scared!) mingle in the Main Hall drinking tea and eating cupcakes, then scurrying back to the tiny little maths room where my fellow volunteers were madly selling all the kit! Avery and her friends circled the Hall as well, chatting with teachers in an impossibly grownup way, stealing cupcakes, getting me to filch glasses of sparkly water for them. Heaven, just to be there and enjoy it all.
Now, as is my custom in June when everything happens far too quickly for me to warn you, I must tell you how much fun “Taste of London” was, once more! Put it in your calenders right now, mid-June in Regent’s Park. This is an incomparably delicious event where top London restaurants gather under tents (thank goodness, as it was pelting with rain!) to sell tiny “tastes” of their signature dishes. This year, everything seemed to be a BURGER! Shrimp and scallop burgers from Scott’s, hand-ground beef and marrow burgers from Corrigan’s, spit roasted suckling pig and black truffle burgers from Launceston Place, and the piece de resistance, the best food we have ever tasted in our LIVES, foie gras burgers from Club Gascon!
Quite simply, a SLAB of foie gras topped with slivers of truffle and a lightly mayo-ed pickle. We went back for seconds! Impossibly delicious, luxurious, dare I say it, unctuous. Sheer gluttony.
Then there was a salt cod brandade with crispy squid in a black ink batter, so unusual, from Roux at the Landau, oh oh OH! And braised pork cheeks with creamed potatoes and a clove sauce, from Petrus. The delight of “Taste of London” for people like us, who NEVER ever go out to dinner, is that we had nearly a dozen “tastes” of the best food London has to offer, for about £25 per person. What a treat, and such fun to share it with John, who’s never been before! And I must say it’s nice to go with the person you feel comfortable kissing, because that way you can share everything!
We came away with fresh ingredients as well: a special combo of strawberries…
and tomatoes…
From the Good Natured Fruit Company, quite simply the best of what these fruits are that you will ever taste. Strawberries as only the British can produce them, red right the way through. I’d show you, but we ate them all.
But it hasn’t all been about food, this June. We’ve also been to the theatre! Last week was “Antigone” at the Southwark Playhouse, with my cherished crush, Edward Petherbridge in the role of Tiresias. Now, I hate to tell you that this play is over, but take heart: we should all support the Southwark Playhouse with its mandate to showcase young talent. The play was so, so relevant, so timely, with lines like “A ruler cannot remain rigid. Only the trees that learn to bend can survive a storm. The rigid trees will be uprooted.” Is Syria listening?
And because it was the birthday of Dorothy L. Sayers, whose detective hero Lord Peter Wimsey was portrayed so memorably by Edward on telly in the 1980s, he spoke afterward to the members of the Sayers Society who had come to the play. Was there ever anyone so poetically articulate as Edward, whose sentences are arranged with semi-colons and dashes, sprinkled with literary allusions and jokes from his theatrical past… simply magic. Avery was entranced. “What chance do people of my own age have when there is someone so brilliant as Edward?” Long may he have work in the London theatre where we can see him, and not be limited to my Wimsey DVDs.
But it’s NOT too late for you to see “Much Ado About Nothing”! With quite simply the greatest comic duo I can imagine playing the roles of Beatrice and Benedick: Catherine Tate and David Tennant! I know it is a cliche, but part of what is so stimulating about living in London is how PRESENT Shakespeare is here, how the director chose to place the place in the 1980s, complete with dreadful music, denim playsuits, big sunglasses, white plimsolls, and how these two actors were able to inject the dialogue with such contemporary meaning! When Benedick has become convinced that Beatrice loves him, and she comes sulkily to summon him to supper, he rejoices. “She comes to say, ‘I have been sent to tell you it is time for dinner.’… Double meaning?!?” You could hardly believe the words had been written 500 years ago.
It wouldn’t be an update on life without letting you know that bellringing is really going joyfully. I have found a tower in which to ring all summer long in America! Just once a week, about a 45-minute drive away from Red Gate Farm, with a very welcoming merry band of ringers who assure me with ABSOLUTELY no irony that they have a group of “11–13 year olds where you’ll fit in perfectly!”
Last week at my 8th-hour lesson with Arnold, I was allowed to ring the bell down, take the inner tube off the clapper, and then thrillingly, ring the bell UP with proper bellringing “ding dong” sounds emanating from the tower! This exciting milestone occurred precisely at 5 p.m. when the Tenor bell was chiming the hour. My own bell picked up right where it left off and the chiming sounds wafted out over the Village. “The neighbors will think there’s a fire,” Arnold joked mildly, but I was THRILLED beyond words. I successfully rang the bell up and, as they say, “set it at balance,” which means it’s up and ready to ring down again. Then in a fog of happiness I put on my jacket and went out, picking up my bicycle.
There I encountered a disheveled, harried-looking father minding two little boys in a carriage.
“What darling babies!” I said.
“Eighteen months,” he said wearily. “We come here every day at 5 o’clock to hear the five chimes of the bell. But for some reason, today it was 105 o’clock!”
I explained about my first time ringing the bell up with sound, and he emerged from his fatigue to rejoice with me. “That’s a real accomplishment, isn’t it, boys?”
I pedalled off into the June evening, feeling that everything was quite, quite right with the world. And to thank Arnold, on Saturday I took a plate of very nice lemon bars, if I do say so myself. It’s a recipe from allrecipes.com, although I altered it by adding lemon and orange zest, and a touch of lemon essence to the base.
Lemon Bars
(makes about 24)
1 cup butter, softened
1/2 cup white sugar
2 cups all-purpose flour
4 eggs
1 1/2 cups white sugar
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp lemon essence
2 lemons, juiced
zest of 1 lemon, 1 orange
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These are delicious, even for me who doesn’t like sweet things. I found them nearly impossible to cut, which worried me, but they were no problem to chew.
I’ll leave you with an example of how funny it is to have Avery around. We’ve been catching up with the final rounds of our beloved “University Challenge,” the nerdiest and most spectacular quiz show in the world. A question is asked.
Avery: “Oh oh oh OH OH! It’s Pinter! For sure Pinter! Ha! I KNEW it!”
The announcer: “And yes, Shakespeare is the correct answer.”
Silence.
Avery in tiny voice: “So… not Pinter, then?”
These are our June adventures.
So glad to hear about your latest bell-ringing feat! And those lemon bars! Promise me you’ll make them for me when you’re here.
It’s a firm promise, Mom! Although you might like those lemon bars I made in childhood better.… remember with the cake mix and frosting?! I say any lemon bar is a good lemon bar. :)
Kristen, I found your blog through BeeDrunken and just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy your writing and your recipes. But most of all I want to let you know how amazed I was when you wrote that Red Gate Farm is across the street from Stillmeadow. I have been a fan of Gladys Taber’s books for about 15 years now. In fact, I even wrote a January blog entry about the book she wrote w/Barbara Webster, Stillmeadow and Sugarbridge. Your last blog entry really rung a bell w/me (excuse the pun ), as I am also a mother of a young teen daughter who is spreading her wings.
Wonderful to hear from you, Jo! I have visited your blog and the photos are simply glorious! Here’s to Gladys.
I think you are onto something with the “Slightly Empty Nest” idea. Maybe you could title your book “The Slightly Empty Nest Years?”
Please, please take me to Taste of London next year! It sounds heavenly.
Bee, I’ve now re-named it “Early Onset Empty Nest Syndrome” as it has an evocative if melancholy ring…
And yes definitely Taste next year! John loved it, surprisingly, so you can meet him. :)