London September
October has set in, with that subtle but certain feeling that summer is well and truly over. We’re ready to say goodbye to Avery on Wednesday as she heads for her FINAL year at Oxford — what? — and we spend one more week here in London before heading back to the States to see the fall “foilage,” as my friend Alyssa’s mother in law puts it. It is hard to believe we’ve spent 12 years of autumns here (the English don’t say “fall,” I have always thought because English leaves don’t make much of a fuss about doing it). Seeing Red Gate Farm in the fall once more will be magical.
London life, though, is perennially full, sometimes too much so! I’ve taken up all the reins of my myriad work here — back to Friday playgroup, where I WISH I could take photographs so you could appreciate the rampant cuteness. Get this — last week I proposed to a three-year-old girl (ridiculous cuteness), “Hey, would you like to do Play-Dough with me?” She put her hands on her little hips and said, “Yes! Let’s DO this thing!”
I have a new Home-Start family. A new trio of children to love, a new mum to listen to and support. Again, I wish I could show you pictures, or even tell you anecdotes. Confidentiality blows, sometimes. There are so many great stories! And Thursday Cooking Club after school. I get spontaneous hugs now when I arrive. The kids are getting into the cooking groove, now, not quite so impossible to handle, not quite so much rambunctious behavior (it helps that I realised I should not bring knives, and not turn on the stove if I can help it). Oatmeal cookies, it turns out, are MUCH more popular than, say, peas and mint on baguette slices.
Last week saw the old Lost Property gang in the thick of our Queen Mother’s Clothing Guild packing week, at St James’s Palace. Again with the “no photographs” thing! What a drag. Such fun to see the ladies again, although while we’re at work we call ourselves “the girls.”
Of course there has been ringing. A Quarter Peal on an impossibly windy day at the tower of All Saints Fulham, and a drink at the local pub after. I guess this pub was named before the tower got their 9th and 10th bells!
Foster Lane is as beautiful as ever, on a Sunday morning, when I arrive to ring before services.
The journey to and from ringing practice on Monday evenings is an event, every single time. The view never gets old, the adventure never lessens. The bridge and St Paul’s present a different beautiful face, every single time.
Coming home late at night, filled with the satisfaction of a good practice and even better friends, is a joy. Every single time.
It was funny to bring together two of my favorite things — ringing at Foster Lane, and Visible Mending.
Which brings me to one of the nicest parts of these late summer weeks: spend lots of time with Avery. Sure, she’s had her nights out, her guests from Oxford, her coffees with old friends. But we’ve also spent hours and hours just hanging out on the sofa, shaking our heads over current affairs, capturing cats to cuddle, and Visibly Mending. (Well, she knits.) I’ll give you a closeup of the scarf above.
It’s all part of my latest obsession, which began in the spring. Visible Mending. It is a thing.
I love it. I mean, it’s a THING.
So I gather my garments covered in holes, and Avery gathers her knitting, and maybe we have the news or an old episode of “Outlander” on the telly in the background. The point is, we hang out together. OK, sometimes I knit. Very slowly and very poorly, but I’m not giving up. Keechie can be an impediment (but a matching one).
One fine Friday afternoon, I lured Elizabeth and my ringing friend Katherine to join us. Avery and Katherine got on just fine.
Oh, Katherine’s artwork! She is a pure genius. She invited us to her MA show and we were off like a shot, to the Chelsea College of Art. What an installation. Just stunning.
Thread, fabric, paper, sesame seeds. Yes, sesame seeds. She SEWS with them.
As Avery and I had so much fun with our New York exhibition, we’ve been giving some thought to putting together a show here. Katherine’s colleagues in the Textile and Design portion of the Chelsea MA programme are giving us serious food for thought. (See what I did there? Sesame seeds = food for thought.) Take, for example, this incredible artist, Shivani Dholepatil, who works in woven stainless steel thread.
Along with Katherine and this fabulous textile artist, Richard McVetis… (I gave this to my mother for her birthday)…
I think we have the makings of a very interesting show, if we can find a space. (Watch this one, for news.)
So send me your moth-holes, your torn jeans, your shredded fabrics yearning to be mended… I mean, it was even at the Venice Biennale. Visible Mending rocks.
In other news, we’ve had guests! Boy, have we had guests. My singing teacher Linda, from my long-ago and misspent youth, came with her husband and they accompanied me to ringing!
Of course they came to dinner after, slow-braised chicken thighs. And Elizabeth’s been round, reunited with me after our summer apart. (Pulled ham-hock tart, just so you know.)
One evening, my friend Casey, who had until that very evening been “only” a Facebook friend, turned up with her husband, all the way from California. Such fun to cook for people who were early and enthusiastic supporters of our cookbook’s Kickstarter campaign. We ate ourselves silly. Crab tart, so delicious. We racked our brains but could not for the life of us remember how we “met,” who on Facebook brought us together. It didn’t matter one bit.
And once they got back home, look what arrived for me. What a doll Casey is.
Speaking of cooking, I’ve been making some unexpected sweet things. Generally speaking, my motivation for this activity is to bring a treat to ringing practice. It’s hungry work, ringing. The latest? Chocolate and toffee oatmeal cookies, adapted from the recipe I used for my Cooking Club in Mile End.
Chocolate and Toffee Oatmeal Cookies
(makes about 30 large cookies)
220g soft butter
2 eggs
200g dark, soft brown sugar
100g caster or granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, scraped of its seeds, or 1 tsp vanilla essence
2 baking-sized bars toffee and sea salt chocolate (or 3 American Heath Bars), or you can make your own
200 grams plain flour
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
pinch Maldon or other sea salt
250g porridge oats
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cloves
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
In one large bowl, cream together the butter, eggs, 2 sugars and vanilla.
In a food processor, whizz the chocolate until the size of small chips. Add to the butter mixture.
In another large bowl, combine all the remaining ingredients, then add the dry mixture to the wet mixture. It will be very heavy and dry and will require quite a lot of mixing to incorporate all the dry ingredients. Drop them in large spoonsful on a baking sheet, leaving room for them to spread. Bake at 180C/350F for about 12 minutes or until slightly browned around the edges. Cool on a rack and then store (ha!) in an airtight box.
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These are superb. Crunchy, oaty, good for you, beloved by ringers and small children. Equally you could use raisins instead of or in addition to the chocolate, and you could use dark chocolate or plain milk chocolate instead of the salty toffee variety. My after-school kids drew the line at adding dried blueberries, however.
Less straightforward, but interestingly exotic, and quite delicious, is halvah, that Middle Eastern treat of sesame seeds and sugar, basically.
I used this recipe from the New York Times, and I have had unpredictable results. The first time, I added crushed pistachios and that was a nice touch. It turned out a bit grainy, a bit crumbly. But delicious.
Avery thought a touch of dried rosebuds would be nice, too, very Israeli.
The second time I made it, I used agave syrup as a substitute for part of the sugar, hoping to eventually cut out the sugar altogether so people who don’t eat sugar could enjoy the halvah. It turned out incredibly sticky. I’d packed adorable boxes of it to give away as presents, and by next morning the little squares had simply merged into one big, sticky block. Still delicious, but nothing you’d take a picture of or give to anyone you had any respect for.
So yesterday I decided to persist with the original recipe, and guess what? I turned my back for one SECOND and the sugar syrup boiled over. Onto my ceramic stovetop. DISASTER! (Avery thought it smelled delicious, burning itself out). It simply adhered to the stovetop. I mean, you could put airplanes together with that stuff. John quickly googled and we found that soaking a tea towel in boiled water and swirling it over the crusty crystallised sugar water worked. Whew.
As a result, I came to realise that I had some mysterious quantity LESS of the sugar syrup than I needed. But how much? Who knew? I just had to wing it. This third batch turned up with a layer of fine sesame oil all over it. Why? We’ll never know, but after assiduous blotting with paper towels, the halvah is perfect.
You must store it with a sheet of baking parchment between layers. But it is now gift-worthy.
Which is good, because I need to send a shipment of it off to our wonderful Japanese architect in Paris, who hosted us there last week for an incredible 29 hours.
29 hours in Paris. What luxury. Two years ago we gave ourselves another couple of hours, but THIS year we gave ourselves the company of Avery! Sublime. The view from our flat…
We dropped off our stuff (including my knitting project; I made massive progress on the Eurostar to distract myself from being underwater in a train tunnel; nightmare) and headed across the street to one of those ubiquitous, complete average and therefore extraordinary Paris cafes for steak tartare, oh my goodness. And then off to walk, walk and walk. Our goal? The Musee d’Orsay, naturally.
Because Rodin. I know there are other objects to see at the d’Orsay, but… Rodin.
Oh, my art historical past. I love being such a nerd that I’ve forgotten more about something than most people ever knew. Rodin.
And there were cats. There was this cat.
And these cats.
Pierre Bonnard is much more fun to look at with Avery than on my own.
Dazed by beauty, we made our way back across the river.
To join our old friend Annabelle for dinner!
We fulfilled a long-held dream of returning to Cafe Max, a restaurant we had frequented when I was a PhD student in Paris in 1991. Ever since, our visits have found it closed for one reason or another, but this time we hit pay dirt. And while it was lovely to be back, I had a very odd dinner indeed. I didn’t know there was a sausage I wouldn’t like on this earth, but I found it. Andouillette. Yep, they’re made of colons. And not this kind: Never mind. Always such a treat to catch up with the newly-adult children of Avery’s childhood and find that they are wonderful, delightful people. A dinner filled with memories.
The view from our flat was so, so lovely at night.
Up in the morning and down the lovely, iconic staircase.
And off to the architects’ office!
Where we were shown the new model for our eventual house here in London. It’s a secret! Someday soon, though.
From there we were taken by our architects to a truly unique lunch at Nodaiwa, a specialist restaurant whose menu remains a mystery to us because our architect ordered for us, very briefly, with no fanfare, and it was all eels. I read now online that this is not all there is to be had at Nodaiwa, but it is all we had. Simply fascinating. Sweet and sour eels, eels in aspic, eel liver soup, grilled eel with rice. What an experience. Great conversation (secret!) about the house plans. John was very, very happy.
Saying goodbye, we strolled over to the Tuileries to bask in the sunshine like one of Bonnard’s cats. John took a nap. Avery and I relaxed, she in the new, awesome coat she’d chosen the day before at APC. They know coats.
We were all very happy.
There was time for a coffee and a treat, back in our neighborhood.
Oh, Paris.
Once home again, John and I made our way to the house site, where the Museum of London Archaeologists were hard at work digging away.
I don’t think we have shared goals: they seemed to be looking for something interesting, whereas we had fingers crossed that absolutely NOTHING of interest to ANYONE would turn up in what will eventually be our basement.
Now October has come. The last school year for Avery, the year we will begin work on our house, the year I make progress on “Tonight at 7.30, Volume Two.” Volume One has had a tremendous resurgence of sales because my darling friend Orlando, a famous food writer, included one of my recipes in an article in the September issue of BBC Good Food magazine!
What fun. If only I’d had the gumption to market it properly myself, I probably wouldn’t have any copies left!
I bid you farewell for now, with this gorgeous shot of St Paul’s Cathedral, our dear neighbor, on the last “Late Night” event that allowed visitors to take pictures (normally forbidden). Don’t you think it’s time for a trip to London?
Kristen, I didn’t know you were such a Rodin expert/lover. Yet another reason to come visit me–the Cantor Art Center at Stanford has a superb Rodin collection. I’s still savoring the memory of dinner chez vous. Sublime.