of a Fair, a Fourth, and other July bliss
Once again, we’re in London for the month of July, and what a parade of festivities there has been! Most elaborate of all, of course, is Barnes Fair, which has grown (from what I hear from long-time natives) from a couple of trestle tables selling Pimms and lemon curd, to a full-blown extravaganza that draws thousands of visitors from all over southwest London. And we had the perfect day for it.
I volunteered to be part of the Open Tower Team, which means that we lowered all the bells to their safe, downward-hanging position…
and then welcome the General Public to climb the 75 treacherously narrow treads of our Tower steps to the very top, there to be offered beautiful views of Barnes, Richmond and even further afield.
To think that there were people standing in that spot, gazing at fields and trees, 800 years ago!
Someone had to sit in the clock room, too, to make sure no naughty visitors tugged on ropes or otherwise disturbed all the delicate mechanisms of our belltower. The Victorian clock workings are just beautiful.
And the view from the clock room, through the trap door, down into my precious ringing chamber… a new perspective!
Of course part of the fun of being on the Tower Team is the walky-talky. “Sending four people up to you, Kristen,” says Charles cracklingly. “Copy that, Charles, I will welcome them. Over.”
I sat in the humid, stale clock room, smelling of bell ropes and old wood, listening to the visitors tramping up and down the belltower steps, listening to the cheerful chatter through the trap door. How I LOVE every moment I spend in this quiet village church, being a peaceful part of a ritual and community that seems not to have changed for 100 years.
There was much fuss over the main event of Open Tower Day: the Teddy Bears’ Parachuting. It wasn’t easy for Curate Ann and Freya’s mum to sort out the rope pulley, for one thing.
But eventually all was ready for the £1‑per-teddy adventure!
Of course the Teddies’ Adventures in Space went extremely well, after all this preparation. Ann launched them on their journeys.
Some fell onto the roofline and had to be rescued with long poles, by Vicar Richard. Some had less perilous journeys.
Flying down past the ancient tower…
Into adoring hands…
Everyone below was suspended in anticipation.
The crowds grew!
I sat in the bell chamber selling tickets, attaching “Tower Tour” necklaces to everyone so we could keep track of who was where. My good friend Colin was a stalwart helper, as always.
To tell you the absolute truth, I was very brave even to be IN the bell chamber after last weekend’s small accident. How on earth am I in the position to teach anyone anything? I really shouldn’t be. When one sweet learner lost control of her rope, I struggled to know what to do. I grabbed for the first bit of the rope I saw — the brightly colored, fluffy sally! I’m sorry to tell you I forgot what would happen to me if I did, even though the results are memoralised in leaded glass in the tower.
I simply flew into the air, perhaps four or five feet above ground, with that damned sally in my hand. Of course what the lovely glass image doesn’t show you is the sprained two knuckles of my right hand, and my sore left shoulder. What an idiot! We all gathered around Eddie for a much-needed basic lesson in “grab the TAIL” in an emergency. I’m still paying for it all in a sore right set of knuckles.
Avery and John joined me for a late-afternoon walk around the Fair, after my Tower responsibilities were over. The weather was perfect, the popcorn delectable.
I’m no lover of Pimms by any means, but I couldn’t resist this sight, the evidence of a British outdoors summer party, done right.
This vision of Barnes Pond by late afternoon belies the chaos of the day.
I absolutely could not resist this particular sight, within the controlled bustle of my friend Trisha’s Annual Bike Sale, held in the churchyard. How the dead must have rejoiced! I would.
We came home, sun-soaked and tired, full of the noise and bustle of the fair. We needed the summer seduction of a home-minced beef burger, piled with everything you can imagine. Sheer summer barbecue joy.
The Fair is only the latest of our July adventures. We’ve been inspired by dear Nigel Slater’s new show, “Eating Together,” a truly lovely exploration of how British cooking is influenced by its immigrant population. In this day of threats to all our open countries’ appreciation of the immigrant joys we’ve all loved, this programme is a warm comfort. The concept is to take a celebrated British dish — slow cooked beef and vegetables, for example — and see how Britain’s immigrants have contributed to the notion, expanded it, and frankly exploded it past all recognition. One such example was a supremely hot Ghanaian dish by a lovely young chef, proprietor of one of the new Brixton pop-up restaurant Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen.
On our visit, Zoe’s sister Natalie was in charge, and oh my, the FOOD!
The beef and pepper skewers, the red spiced rice, the fried plantains, and best, to my mind, the spiced mackerel. We ate it ALL.
The whole of the pop-up establishment was wonderfully energetic, fresh and new. All built of containers and simply plopped down in the incredibly vibrant community of Brixton, a new place for me.
We wandered around after our lunch in search of a fishmonger — and found seven or eight of them in shouting distance, not to mention a dozen butchers, fresh fruit and vegetable displays, spice huts. I wanted to move right in.
What a part of this vast Londonness that I’ve never appreciated before!
In the spirit of that openness and celebration of difference, then, we approached our Fourth of July celebrations. The weather was perfection.
I made burgers, John grilled hot dogs. We had found proper French’s mustard, watermelons, fresh corn (it was rather awful) and unearthed John’s mom’s gift at Christmas of Fourth of July napkins! We were ready.
Our guests came with appetites: Elizabeth and Maddie — happy to indulge in Mojitos with Avery — Andrew and Hazel from next door, and Nora’s beautiful family — two little boys, about to be three, when she has her new baby in October. The three she has already are just gorgeous.
From the Fourth, we emerged to enjoy another London summer tradition in July, the Royal Academy Summer Exhibition visit. We went with my dear friend Sue, who having had us over for dinner on THE HOTTEST evening of the year, had somehow in a fit of heat stroke convinced us to pop back into Central London for the show, the Monday after.
I was sorry to find that the pieces I loved the best — a vitrine installation and a drawing — were by already-famous people (Anselm Kiefer and Cornelia Parker), rather than the undiscovered gems one is meant to find at the RA Summer show. But it was glorious.
As was the play the following night, yet another production of the Importance of Being Earnest. How many versions of this delicious Oscar Wilde invention can our family ingest? Of course David Suchet was marvellous, as expected, but the true joy was in finding the actors playing Cecily and Gwendolyn (“Good heavens, Gwendolyn!), and Algernon and Jack so inventive, so fresh, so able to invest their roles now over 100 years old with new layers, new laughter. It was a total joy.
All this was mitigated only by the sorrow of a toothache for John, which kept him from the play. This combined with his having sprained his toe on a pile of my cookbooks led to my coming up with surely the WORST pub name in the history of English pubs: “The Toe and the Tooth.”
He survived by working hard on Potters Fields, with meetings here and there, and the plans spread out on the dining table, only recently cleared off of Avery’s piles of revision notes.
Oh, the evening when I drove with John to his late-night dental appointment in not-so-nearby Harrow, to chat in the heavenly summer sunset as we went, then read peacefully in the hospital waiting room while he was seen to, then drive home again in the balmy night air. Only to arrive home near midnight to find out car convertible roof wouldn’t close. “Bloody hell,” we said in unison, as John fetched a cocktail and a tool box. Finally we left it covered with a tarp until help could come the next morning.
There have been quiet days of the three of us reading in the sunny living room, wandering into the rather crunchy brown garden now and then, with a lawn chair or just a bath towel in the sun, watching Tacy eat cobwebs. Which turns out to be a thing.
With the garden doors open, Cressie the Visitor Cat has tried to make inroads.
Avery and I field the dramas, which ended one night in a slight scuffle and a “Keechie’s ear actually bled onto my phone!” from Avery, a sentence we must surely add to our collection of “never been said before.”
Tomorrow is my last day in London before we all disperse for the coming six weeks or so. On Wednesday, I will take a train to Devon for an overnight bell-ringing adventure (more on this to be sure!), then to America for two weeks (ditto, there will be loads of commentary!). But I will miss my family dinners at home.
To mark the occasion with a truly delicious dinner, last night saw us with a vegetable-laden extravaganza, inspired by Sue’s hospitality earlier in the month. I hate peas! normally. Famously! But this dish, raw, fresh and highly flavored, was a revelation.
Sue’s July Peas
(serves four)
300g/ 2 cups fresh-shelled, raw peas
juice of 1 lemon
2 garlic cloves
125 g/4 oz/1 cup grated Parmesan
generous drizzle olive oil
fresh ground black pepper
sea salt to taste
Put all the ingredients into a small food processor and pulse until a pleasant, rough-ground texture is achieved. Tip into a bowl and sprinkle with more olive oil and cheese right before serving.
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This dish, served with roasted beetroot wedges with fresh thyme and olive oil, and steamed new poatoes with parsley, butter and garlic, would have been a perfect dinner. But because it was July, and I’m about to abandon my family to weeks of their own cooking, it seemed only right to combine the vegetables with a gorgeous barbecued pork tenderloin, marinated in a wonderful spice blend I found in Brixton called “chicken salt,” plus garlic and onion powders, fresh black pepper, lemon and lime juice, lemon grass, chopped red onion. This tenderloin was left in the fridge to its own devices for perhaps an afternoon, then grilled for what I will forever think of as “pork 5/5/5.” This means, high heat for five minutes, turn over and grill for another five minutes, then turn off the heat and shut the grill lid for another five minutes. This serves as the resting period. Cut thick slices and serve with all the vegetables you can find.
And enjoy July, on your church tower, or wherever the beautiful early month finds you.
Oh hooray, another post! It sounds like you are going to really miss your bell tower at Barnes, once you move East, despite the recent accident. Or will you commute there to do the ringing? I hope your trip to America is for fun — will you be in NYC?
Oh, I’m going to miss Barnes tremendously! Really heartbroken to leave. I’m going to investigate where I can ring locally in Southwark, but I also might creep back here now and then. Listen here for a sample of my ringing today for a funeral in Fulham… https://soundcloud.com/john-curran-27/beautiful-half-muffled-funeral-ringing And yes, I’ll be in NYC for a day on either side of my US trip. Totally exhausted just thinking of all that will happen during those two weeks!