of bells, Shakespeare, and Ladies Who Lunch
Isn’t it funny how a simple head cold can make you feel like everything is beyond your grasp? I knew when I sneezed 31 times in a row two evenings ago that something was up, and sure enough. The silver lining to feeling unwell is having a husband willing and able to make possibly the world’s most medicinal soup.
Homemade Tom Yum Paste
(makes enough for soup to serve 4)
1 stalk lemongrass, lightly crushed, or zest of 1 lemon
1‑inch knob of ginger, peeled
2 cloves garlic
2 Kaffir lime leaves sliced thinly, or zest of 1 lime
1 tbsp Thai roasted chilli paste or chilli garlic sauce
Thai bird’s eye chillies, to taste
2 tbsps Thai fish sauce
juice of 1 lime
1 banana shallot, peeled and cut into chunks
pinch sugar
handful coriander/cilantro with stems
Simply place everything in your food processor and process till as smooth as you can get it. Dump it in a saucepan with a can of half-fat coconut milk and 2 cups/473ml water or stock (fish or chicken).
Now for the soup:
1 pound raw peeled shrimp, or chicken breast thinly sliced on the bias
8 chestnut mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 bunch scallions/spring onions, thinly sliced both white and green part
chopped red hot chillis to taste
handful coriander/cilantro leaves, no stems
Bring the paste and milk mixture to a simmer and put in the shrimp and mushrooms. Simmer for just a couple of minutes until the shrimp are JUST cooked. Add everything else and serve hot, with rice vermicelli if desired.
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This soup has everything: spicy, sour, sweet, with the refreshing zing of plenty of ginger and the creamy luxury of coconut milk. It may make your nose run just a tiny bit more, but in a good way. That cold can’t last forever, and a little Tom Yum is pure comfort.
To think that over the weekend I was perfectly well, well enough for an entire Saturday’s bellringing adventure. The ivy-filled churchyard above was just one of the beautiful places on our agenda, as we went from tower to tower along the banks of the Thames, ringing as guests of very hospitable people who were only too happy to open their ringing chambers for us.
It’s a funny distinction, but I always think of us as visiting “churches,” where real ringers think of them, and indeed refer to them, as “towers,” as if the only relevant aspect of the structure is the part that houses the bells. I love the whole churchly aspect to these places, the sense of the passage of time, the acknowledgement of the way history has affected the parishioners.
We happened upon one particularly stunning monument in the wonderfully-named St James the Less, parish church to Dorney Court, a gorgeous medieval private home that’s been in the Palmer family uninterruptedly for the last 450 years.
If you look closely, you can see that some of the 15 children of this particular generation of Palmers are holding skulls, indicating that they died before their parents. How touching, that even in the days when it was quite common to have children die young, this family felt each loss so deeply.
We rang at three churches in the morning, had lunch, then rang in three more in the afternoon, before heading home in the dusk, tired, but satisfied with our labors. Whenever I feel disappointed in my ringing achievements, knowing I have so much more to learn, I have to stop and be satisfied just a little bit that I could take part in a whole day’s outing, participating in many of the rings, a welcome member of the group.
And my reward for all this activity was to come home to a perfect dinner cooked by John, who although he does not love cooking, is happy to do it when I’ve been out (or ill), and it’s a good opportunity to test one of the cookbook recipes, and prove that it works. This pasta dish is one of the all-time umami favorites, featuring very strong flavors of caper, anchovy and oil-cured olives. One of the nice bits of this recipe is that aside from the Parmesan, you can have everything in your cupboard and not have to go shopping.
Spaghetti Puttanesca
(serves 4)
1/2 lb spaghetti
3 tbsps olive oil
4 cloves garlic
1/2 red onion
7 oz/200g oil-cured black olives, pitted and cut in half
1 soup-size can peeled tomatoes, cut in sixths
3 tbsps capers, rinsed if held in salt
6 anchovies, rinsed
1 cup grated Parmesan
Boil spaghetti. In the meantime, mince the garlic and onion. Saute in olive oil in a saucepan, then when soft, add the olives, tomatoes, capers and anchovies. Saute till mixed. Throw in the drained spaghetti and serve with cheese.
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It was absolutely heavenly to rest in bed that night, full of Puttanesca sauce, with a hot water bottle, a cat at my feet under the covers, a glass of brandy at my elbow, a sleeping husband at my side, listening to Avery practice for her upcoming singing exams up in her room, watching the rain swish against the bedroom windows with the Thames just below.
We’ve been to two absolutely unforgettable Shakespeare productions which are still on, if you can but get a ticket. I don’t know which was more impressive: the tour de force that was Simon Russell Beale’s “King Lear,” or the equally outstanding David Tennant as “Richard II.” Two completely different actors: Beale a burly, cruel bully, and Tennant a lithe and sensuous poet, equally at the top of their games. We enjoyed both tremendously, feeling our usual sense of exhilaration at being south of the river in the thick of the theatre.
I am thrilled to say that I have my new Home-Start family! Of course I cannot tell you anything about them for confidentiality’s sake, but suffice it to say that they are very small babies, smaller than I had remembered they start. What fun to go back to the beginning of the whole maternal adventure. I found myself slightly envious — although I don’t think I have it in me to start over — of having a child at an age where the things they could possibly need, or even want, are so few in number, and it’s entirely within the parent’s power to provide them all. How much more confusing, I find, to have a child who isn’t even any longer a child, whose thoughts are entirely her own and usually unknowable to a parent, whose needs and wants are so much more complex.
How can we possibly be talking about university choices? But we are.
Finally it was time for that most enjoyable of January activities: the first Lost Property luncheon of the new year! It’s always such fun to set out all the champagne glasses, put up the extra table and chairs, throw together a couple of main courses for 20, and let the doorbell start ringing.
There is something in the nature of a lady who would want to volunteer at Lost Property that makes her a good friend. It’s partly a lack of pretension about getting dirty — those lacrosse boots can be pretty overwhelming — and partly a desire to help, to make order out of mess, to reunite girls with their belongings (“oh, thank goodness, I have chemistry next and I had no idea I’d lost my file!”), to eavesdrop on their funny conversations, to get an hour’s glimpse once or twice a term into their daily lives.
I offered them a luscious roasted side of salmon with a lovely, simple salsa of red pepper and cucumber, and a bowl of garlic mayonnaise. But the star of the show was the eggplant casserole. How else can you use up about a half a bottle of olive oil in one go? I’ve posted this recipe before, but it bears repeating, as every lady wanted to make it when she got home.
Eggplant, Chickpea and Tomato Casserole
(serves about 6 as side dish)
4 medium eggplants, cut in 1/4 inch slices
1/2 cup olive oil (add more as needed)
1 soup-size tin chickpeas
1 large tin plum tomatoes
2 medium white onions, sliced thin
6 cloves garlic, minced
3 balls buffalo mozzarella cheese
sprinkling Parmesan or Pecorino cheese
sea salt and fresh black pepper
handful chopped flat-leaf parsley
With all eggplants sliced and ready, heat olive oil in a large shallow frying pan. In a series of single-layer batches, fry eggplant slices until soft, adding olive oil as needed. Set aside on paper towels.
Fry sliced onions in the leftover oil until soft, then add garlic. Do not burn the garlic.
When all eggplant and onions and garlic are fried, cover the bottom of a 9x13 casserole dish with a layer of eggplant, then spread the onions and garlic over them. Add another layer of eggplant and scatter over half the plum tomatoes, squeezing them into smallish pieces as you take them out of the tin. Add salt and fresh pepper. Add the chickpeas. Add half the cheese, torn into bite-size pieces, then finish with a layer of eggplant and top with the rest of the tomatoes and scatter the remaining cheese on top. Season sauce to taste and stir in half the parsley.
Alternately, just tip the eggplants back in the frying pan with the onions and garlic, then stir in the tomatoes and chickpeas and half the parsley, then season to taste. Simmer until you are ready to serve, then tear the mozzarella into bite-sized pieces and scatter them over the casserole with the rest of the parsley. Serve hot or warm.
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This is the perfect main course for the vegetarian in your life, or even the vegan if you leave out the cheese. Some of my friends swear by the substitution of tofu for mozzarella in many dishes, and this should certainly be one of them. It’s also an excellent side dish to any roasted or grilled meat. I served a bowl of sliced Cumberland sausages alongside the casserole at the Lost Property lunch, for anyone who wanted a heartier lunch.
Because it’s a potluck, I get the chance to eat other wonderful dishes like the roasted beet and walnut salad brought by my lovely friend Elspeth.
We all agree that the chance to get together with 30+ like-minded, intelligent and willing women, raise a glass of bubbly within while cold rains persist without, is one of the moments to look forward to in this dreary month.
Surely I can last two more days, and then the shortest month, and the one happily containing my birthday, will be here, banishing January for one more year.
The Tom Yum looks and sounds incredible — and seems so much easier to make than I would have thought. I can practically smell the citrus and cilantro now…
This is the second time in a few weeks I’ve heard of the hot water bottle in bed and it is so curious to me. John saw in advance that his Kathmandu hotel offered water-heated beds and he thought it meant water beds or something, but it was a hot water bottle delivered at bed time to warm one’s bed! He still froze ;)
I can’t wait to try out this last eggplant recipe in particular and using up half a bottle of olive oil in one sitting should be a Scout badge, what an amazing feat!
I think it is strange that we are often sick at the same time and you are so far away my friend. Tom Yum will surely be a taste blast , handy since I can’t taste anything. So glad to hear you live by the river..I loved your description of laying in bed and the rain. All the kids are growing up it seems ‚they get to what I would like to do..
The Puttanesca sounds divine! What a perfect choice for a rainy night. Added to my recipe file- thanks!
The puttanesca sounds delicious, something for the weekend. Thanks for the inspiration.
OH Kristen, I am so excited to try your, Eggplant, Chickpea and Tomato Casserole, my husband LOVES Eggplant. I must say I am so very tired of Eggplant Parmesan! I love how most of your ingredients are on hand, this makes your recipes so easy, so much more doable then most that I find.
I love your input of the personal touch with your stories to go along with your recipes. They really bring out your personal touch. With you being so far away from home, and all your friends here in the states, not only do we get to taste your incredible dishes, but get a taste of your life there over the sea! Thank you Dear Friend!
The soup looks yummy and comforting. Hope you are feeling better, Kristen!
Thanks again for sharing all of your adventures and yummy recipes!
Well, I had such a thrill yesterday myself — “Wolf Hall” at the RSC…I’m sure they’ll move it to the West End — and if they do — run, don’t walk to get a ticket. In two weeks I get to see “Bring Up the Bodies” — Ben Miles is a wonder as Cromwell.
Seeing the Lear this week — what joys to live in England — what great theater! So looking forward to our afternoon…Jo XXXX
Thanks, all! So thrilled the dishes sound like something you’d like to make. The Tom Yum is a joy. We made it again yesterday with chicken instead of prawns and I think I even prefer it. Jo, I’ll look for “Wolf Hall,” but we’re happy to see it at the RSC, where we saw “Richard II.” Can’t wait to see you. xx
One of these days I’ll have time to try some of these recipes. I suppose it just takes some prior planning, but most nights I start thinking about what to cook when I’m about five minutes from home.
Kristen~ I wanted to comment earlier but I too (across the pond) am troubled by a pesky cold. Funny how with all the wonderful medical cures, this baby just can’t be cured. It amazes me how it can drag me down. As I get older they seem to be harder to get over.
You know I am a picky eater but you have proven yourself to me (except for the beets) that you make everything so dog gone yummy! I do wish you lived back home in Indiana so you could share your tasty creations.
My cold has robbed me of the sensation of taste currently… in fact, the bell ringing would be cruel to me as well as my cold includes an earache.
Frankly I’m a mess. So with that, I must go and cuddle up to some good reads.
Love to you~
Janis, poor YOU! I know how you all have been hit in Indy with such atrocious weather. I wish for snow, but constant such stuff would be a pain, especially when you get unwell. How I wish I were there to cook for you, and we could spend a quiet afternoon together.