sum­mer cooking

No, we’re not serv­ing up ground­hog, at least not yet! But I could­n’t resist post­ing a pic­ture of dar­ling Gary, the ground­hog. Or it could be his off­spring, who Avery has chris­tened Can­teloupe (guess why). It’s hard not to just buy fruit and take it straight out to them. I hope they don’t give up on us while we’re away for a week in Iowa, and Minnesota.

Yep, we leave tomor­row morn­ing to vis­it John’s par­ents in Iowa, then dri­ve up (over? I’m unclear) to Min­neso­ta for our niece Sarah’s excit­ing bat mitz­vah (my first!), then back to Iowa, then back here in a week. I’m try­ing not to remem­ber my last trip back from Iowa, in a snow­storm in a tiny four-seater plane. What a bad mem­o­ry! But tomor­row will be entire­ly large com­mer­cial planes flown by, pre­sum­ably, pro­fes­sion­als, and I’m tak­ing plen­ty of Bach’s Flower Reme­dies any­way, just in case I get ner­vous. I am real­ly not much of a traveler.

I just have to tell you about my lat­est redis­cov­ery: Cor­nish game hens. In a child­hood sin­gu­lar­ly untouched by events of a note­wor­thy gas­tro­nom­ic qual­i­ty, we did eat, for what­ev­er rea­son, Cor­nish game hens. Just Per­due, noth­ing exot­ic, but I think I dis­cov­ered them in high school and had some suc­cess. Well, yes­ter­day I was plan­ning bar­be­cued chick­en, when I was vis­it­ed by an inspi­ra­tion. Why not buy some of the lit­tle guys and try my invent­ed sauce on them? And it was sublime.

Bar­be­cued Cor­nish Game Hens
(serves four)

3 Cor­nish game hens

equal parts (about 3/4 cup each): ketchup, hon­ey, maple syrup, Worces­ter­shire sauce
peel (but not bit­ter pith) of 1 lemon or lime
3 cloves garlic
half a red onion, cut in chunks

Place all the mari­nade ingre­di­ents in your Cuisi­nart and whizz till nice­ly mixed, but with chunks of onion left.

Now here’s the trick: split your hens down the back, choos­ing one side or the oth­er of the spine and cut­ting the spine away when you’ve thor­ough­ly split the birds. Throw the spines, with the neck and kid­neys from the giblet bag, in a pot and cov­er with water, salt thor­ough­ly and sim­mer for a cou­ple of hours. There’s a nice pot of chick­en stock for you.

Now line a big bak­ing dish or cook­ie sheet with foil and lay the hens out, then slather with the mari­nade. Leave as long as you can, but at least an hour.

Fire your grill (we have a propane Weber, thank you Jill and Joel) up to near­ly its hottest, about 400 degrees inter­nal tem­per­a­ture. Grill the birds skin side up for 15 min­utes, then skin side down for anoth­er 15 min­utes. Perfection!

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And, can I also report a very nice alter­na­tive to tra­di­tion­al vinaigrette?

White Bal­sam­ic Dress­ing with Celery
(make how­ev­er much you like)

3 parts olive oil
1 part white bal­sam­ic vine­gar (in nice super­mar­kets, next to the dark sort)
juice of 1 lemon (if mak­ing at least a cup total)
1 tsp cel­ery salt
hand­ful cel­ery leaves, chopped coarsely
hand­ful flat pars­ley leaves, chopped coarsely
1 tsp pre­pared horseradish
pinch Mal­don salt

Place all these in jar with a tight­ly-seal­ing lid, or in a bowl to whisk, and mix thor­ough­ly. It looks very del­i­cate and pale, but has a nice kick.

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Last­ly, I repli­cat­ed with fair suc­cess one of Avery’s favorite dish­es from our beloved Man­darin Kitchen, in Queensway, London.

Fried Noo­dles with Sprouts and Onions
(serves four)

1/2 pack­age dried Asian noo­dles (labelled “for stir-fry”)
2 tsps peanut oil
2 cloves gar­lic, minced
1/2 Vidalia onion, sliced thin
2 cups bean sprouts
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tsp soy sauce

Boil water for noo­dles while you mince the gar­lic, then cook the noo­dles as direct­ed and drain thor­ough­ly. Toss in sev­er­al paper tow­els. This step is very impor­tant as you do not want them to ren­der the dish sog­gy at all.

Saute the gar­lic and onion in the peanut oil until soft. Add the noo­dles and stir fry at as high a heat as you can with­out burn­ing the gar­lic. Add the bean sprouts and toss to mix, then pour over the sesame oil and soy sauce, toss to blend. So sim­ple and tasty.

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More from Iowa! Is it hot where you are?

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