thank you, Facebook, for Charlie
A distraction, a massive time-waster, a postmodern conversion of true friendship into a series of “likes,” call it what you will. I love Facebook. The reason was never clearer than in this past week, when we’ve been reunited with one of our dear friends from university days, Charlie.
There are just certain people in your life, and you know who they are, for whom the passage of time has made no difference. Ironically, these are often people with whom you’ve lost touch, usually because one of you stayed in the same place and the other flew the coop, or because both of you went merrily off in different directions, and other friends, other experiences, other ties, came to fill the gap.
When you have the chance to be reunited, you are thoroughly flooded with memories of the joys of that past friendship, and you grab it back with both hands and come away absolutely determined not to lose each other again. Such has been our week with Charlie. And we owe it all to Facebook, to bring us together, remind us how much we always made each other laugh, and make a point of spending as much time together as possible when he made his jaunt to London this week.
First he appeared at our little house, laden with flowers and a much-needed injection of Fox Point Seasoning, whose level had dropped alarmingly since my Christmas fix. You should all know that the way to my heart — and a home-cooked dinner of your choosing — when your travels bring you to London is merely a glass jar of dried shallot mixture. I’m so easy.
We talked nonstop, Avery listening bemusedly to our ramblings, for hours and hours, first over drinks, then dinner, then tea. Since he wouldn’t tell me what he really wanted to eat, I fed Charlie what I really wanted to eat. The nicest thing about this dish (aside from its sheer luxurious deliciousness) is that it cooks itself.
Seven-Hour Braised Leg of Lamb with Umami Rub
(serves at least 6)
This recipe combines two of my favorite lamb dishes: a slow-cooked one from my friend Orlando’s divine cookbook, “A Table in the Tarn,” and a very simple one I’ve invented myself that combines every savoury ingredient in your pantry for a spectacularly messy rub. And the beauty is, this dish cooks itself all day while you do other things.
1 tbsp olive oil
1 whole bone-in leg of lamb (the size does not matter as the leg cooks very slowly and thoroughly)
1 whole lemon
6 cloves garlic
handful fresh rosemary
handful fresh thyme
2 tbsps capers
four anchovies in oil, drained
plenty of black pepper
handful flat-leaf parsley
4 onions, sliced
6 carrots, cut in large chunks
300ml white wine
300 ml chicken or beef stock
2 cups Beluga lentils, prepared and cooked
Heat the oil in a heavy pot with a close-fitting lid (or a tent of aluminium foil can do to cover the dish if you have no lid). Brown the lamb all over in the oil, for about 10 minutes, until as much of the surface has been scorched as possible. Lift the lamb onto a dish to wait.
Put ALL the ingredients up to and including the parsley in your food processor — really, the whole lemon, quartered — and blitz until a nice smooth paste. Rub the mixture all over the shoulder of lamb, on both sides.
Cook the onions and carrots in the oil and lamb fat for about 10 minutes, until the onions are translucent, then add the garlic and cook for another couple of minutes. Scatter the lentils over the onions and carrots and pour over the wine and stock. Lay the lamb in its rub on top of the vegetables and seal with the lid or foil.
Braise slowly at 120C/220F for up to seven hours, but at least six hours. In the last half hour, drain all the cooking liquids from the dish, and separate the fat from the cooking liquids. Discard the fat, then heat the cooking liquids in a frying pan with a tablespoon of flour whisked in, simmering until the gravy is thickened.
Simply tear the meat apart with two forks. The meat will fall off the bone. Serve with the gravy or homemade mustard, or both. The lentils, onions and carrots will still be edible, as well, although very soft.
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We did our level best — with many sidetracks, anecdotes and Charlie’s brilliant quipping (“There is no ‘I’ in ‘team’, but there are plenty in ‘narcissistic‘”) to cover the last quarter century of our lives. Washington, D.C., Virginia, Chicago for Charlie, following political campaigns and congressmen, PR and investing, New York, London, art history, cooking and property development for us. Avery chipped in with tales of hideous mock AS level exams and mistakes made in Olympic Russian interpretation!
Not having broken the surface of what we needed to say to each other, we met up mid-week at Harrods, of all places! There is nothing like out-of-town visitors to get you out of your rut, to see a little of what makes London a destination for so many people, and not just home to us.
In the olden days, the Terrace Restaurant was the place I hung out with John’s beloved dad when they visited. It was the scene of many a Christmas-shopping lunch, plotting what to give John’s mom, going over our happy past as daughter-and father-in-law. Happy memories. They do a lovely champagne tea, too.
And precisely NOTHING had changed. Oh, the club sandwich is now described in amusingly “modern” terms like “Donley Farm bacon,” “heirloom tomatoes,” and “free-range hard-cooked egg.” But it’s still a club sandwich, and what better to have at Harrods? The sun came out for Charlie and his mother, who could not have been more delightful, guiding us into the past to find out how we met, what we’ve been doing all these years, to extract descriptions of just how above-average our child is. Wonderful people.
And Charlie came with gifts: a James Bond novel for Avery, an architecture book for John, and for me, my new favorite book of the hour and one I would like to give to everyone, “Love Letters of the Great War.” A collection of genuinely moving epistles from the battlefields to lovers back home, from wives in Poland and Moscow and Philadelphia to their soldiers. You will love it.
Today, on Charlie’s last day in London, we met up at our crazy Plot of Dirt, at the foot of Tower Bridge, to show him just in how insane a fashion John spends his days. Will this Plot of Dirt ever be a home?
As you can see, the development next door is coming along considerably faster than ours. We were given a tour of the penthouses as they shoot up into the sky (sadly obscuring our view of the bridge, but one cannot stand in the way of progress).
I really, really hope I did not get nits from that hardhat.
What will never be obscured is the view over the Thames. How majestic!
Once we’d had our fill of imagining the future, we sauntered along the river to Borough Market, which amazingly will be my local food purveyor when we eventually move into our new home. John groans in dismay at the dent this will make in his wallet, as I simply cannot resist the lure of the butchers (a plump duck came home with me), the cheesemongers (a quite magical sheep-goat Robiola, yum yum), the bakers. Check out these garlic and olive breadsticks.
Oh, the fruit and veg purveyors. There are so many, each more beautiful than the last.
And just to underline how my photographs of food pale in comparison with Avery’s, look what she did with the tomatoes when we got home.
We drove Charlie to Trafalgar Square and dropped him at St Martin’s in the Field, loath to say goodbye. But he’ll be back. We must hope so, because he is one of those givers that you meet too seldom in life: someone who packs joy into his suitcase along with the Fox Point, who approaches every new person, new adventure, new idea with energy and the kind of curiosity that makes you feel much more interesting than you really are. His motto is “Be the good energy in the room,” and my goodness, he fulfills it.
John and I managed to have one bit of fun without Charlie this week, and that was our joint birthday lunch, a gift from his mom, to Benares in Berkeley Square, quite the most incredible Indian restaurant in the world, the only one in London with a Michelin star.
Crispy soft-shell crab with squid rings and mango-passion fruit salsa, cumin-dusted scallops with cauliflower six ways, fried Indian-spiced John Dory with super-spicy chilli dip, lamb rump and shoulder samosa with coriander chickpeas and a tamarind sauce… heaven. I can cook fair Italian food, not-embarrassing Chinese food, and really pretty darn good Japanese food, but Indian eludes me. I think you have to be Indian. What a treat.
Still, we were happy to have my jazzed-up spaghetti carbonara that evening for dinner. The added chicken and asparagus make the traditional garlicky, bacony flavors even more special, in my opinion.
Spaghetti Carbonara with Asparagus and Chicken
(serves four generously)
1 pound bacon (American or English), diced
1/2 small white onion, finely minced
a bunch asparagus
2 chicken breast fillets
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/2 cup/118ml light cream
1/2 cup/118ml creme fraiche
1 egg yolk
sprinkling fresh grated nutmeg
sprinkling fresh black pepper
3/4 pound spaghetti
1/2 grated pecorino romano or parmesan
Boil water for pasta. Then in a large skillet, saute bacon bits over low to medium heat, stirring nearly constantly and taking care that the bacon does not scorch. If you are using American bacon, you will need to drain the fat frequently. British bacon will provide just enough fat for a nice sauce. When bacon is cooked, add onion, asparagus and chicken and fry until chicken is JUST cooked through, then add garlic, stirring for a moment, then turn off heat.
In a medium bowl, combine cream, creme fraiche, egg yolk, nutmeg and pepper.
Cook pasta and drain, reserving about 1/4 cup of the pasta water. Whisk hot water into creamy sauce, then throw the pasta into the sauce skillet and toss well with the sauce and reserved hot water. Serve immediately with cheese sprinkled on top.
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And so our February, filled with sorrows and joys, pressures and adventures, rain and sunshine, and a truly wonderful reunion, has come to and end. Spring is in sight, here in London town.
Kristen,
I too am a lover of all things Charlie as we have been friends since high school.…and now find ourselves in Chicago together — although see each other too little…
regardless, you and I are kindred spirits as I am a lover and purveyor of all things food (at work and at home). Thanks for your lovely blog and recipes!
a new fan,
lori
Lori, how lovely to meet you! Any friend of Charlie’s is a friend of mine, most certainly! Do you have your own blog?
Ahhh…Lori Calabash* (*a nickname from high school days) — Kristen, you would love my friend, Lori (and husband, Jim) — a lovely friend who seems to have dodged any signs of aging at all — she still looks the same, acts the same, but somehow has these older kids around, too. A creative cook, she will certainly be testing out some of your fare …lucky Jim! (Hey, Bash — let’s compare calendars for weekends ahead — glad to drive out and hang out sometime soon — xx)
Lovely to meet Lori!
Hi Kristen and Chas,
No blog yet (wistful sigh) but much aspiration. I work at Williams Sonoma and also am a mktg consultant so little time right now but love meeting fellow foodies!
Chas, would love to hang…perhaps we can meet at Eataly (Kristen, fly in for the occasion!) when Colin is home over Spring Break. now that he’s 21 he can keep up with the likes of us!
Cheers to you both!
I’ve heard things about Eataly; sounds good to me! Where is Colin in school?