the lovely season of Easter
Here I sit on a wet, windy Easter afternoon, rather revelling for once in the sight of my rainswept garden, enjoying the quiet of a spring Sunday.
We’ve had unheard-of stretches of sunny days this lovely April, arousing in the average Londoner the conflicting emotions of tremendous gratitude and a superstitious fear that sun in England is limited and we may have been using it up with rather too much abandon. The English are trained to look upon every dry moment with amazement, lest April be all the summer we get and the “real” summer is a washout.
But today, gardeners everywhere are celebrating the damp, watching the bluebells lift their faces to drink. Just last week, this was the scene in our sunny garden, such a beautiful sight that even shy, frightened Keechie ventured out to smell the blossoms.
Even more so than sunshine, this Easter season, I have been grateful to be peacefully at home and NOT contemplating a house move. Would you believe that in 2008, 2011 and 2013 our Easters were ALL characterised by just such an upheaval! It made me tired last night, just to read about my own life. I feel very appreciative to be spending this particular festive time doing nothing more challenging than a little light bell-ringing, a little marathon cooking, a lot of egg-dyeing.
Yes, my ringing life was adventurous last week! After a months-long, £250,000 renovation campaign, the lovely ten bells of All Saints, Fulham, reopened for business on Saturday. What a stunning tower, dating back to 1445.
And we Barnes ringers loyally crossed the river (I on my trusty bike across Putney Bridge) to help inaugurate them in style. Eddie proudly introduced us to refurbished tower, and we rang the bells, cast in 1652, and now given brand-new hangings and ropes.
Ten bells! At Barnes, of course, we have eight lovely bells, and we often ring on only six of them. Ten bells is an exponentially more complex task. Just think: you have to be able to keep your place in a sequence of ten “bongs,” and you must crucially be able to hold up your bell and wait that extra millisecond or two while two bells more than you’re used to have a chance to ring before you. Trisha and Michael joined in the usual camaraderie of rounds and call changes.
How odd it was to ring with entirely brand-new ropes and sallies! Little bits of hemp, plaster, and the dust of the ages flew around our heads. But we had a beautiful time, however intimidating and challenging for me. And then it was onto the roof to appreciate the iconic view of the Thames.
After that splendid adventure, it was supremely relaxing the following morning just to ring our familiar eight at St Mary’s! Of course, the presence of a certain mascot for Holy Week helped things along immeasurably.
Just look at that blue sky! Incredibly restorative.
I needed all the energy I could get last week, because I had committed myself to quite the quixotic cooking project for my beloved HandPicked Nation: how to eat over a kilo of chicken livers without collapsing from iron overdose? There was no problem, though. With a few gifts of divine pate to friends, John and I were perfectly able to plow through the remaining quantity of livers all on our own. The best dish, I think, aside from the pate (because pate is always the best dish in the room no matter the other competitors) was this splendid yet humble one.
Creamy Sauteed Chicken Livers and Mushrooms on Toast
(serves 4)
2 tbsps butter
16 chestnut mushrooms, sliced or cut in wedges, as you like
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1/2 tsp fresh rosemary leaves, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 banana shallot, minced
2 tbsps Madeira, Marsala or brandy
1 pound chicken livers, well-trimmed
1 tbsp double cream
sea salt and fresh black pepper to taste
4 pieces high-quality wholemeal bread, toasted
fresh snipped chives to garnish
Melt the butter in a heavy frying pan, then add the mushrooms and herbs and saute until the mushrooms are soft. Add the garlic and shallot and saute till they are soft. Add the wine or brandy and sizzle for a moment, then add the livers. Softly saute/poach the livers, turning occasionally, until they are JUST not bloody in the centers. Take care not to overcook. Add the cream at the last minute and season to taste. Pile on toast slices and sprinkle with chives.
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We could have eaten so much more of this heavenly lunch than there was! It was wonderful to appreciate the rich, yet completely inexpensive flavours of the livers, such an overlooked ingredient in modern cooking.
The next day, a simple, warm sort of salad was possible with a very few ingredients.
Chicken Livers and Bacon with Split Red Lentils
(serves 4)
2 tbsps butter
8 chicken livers, well-trimmed and divided in half
8 slices smoked bacon
(16 cocktail sticks/toothpicks)
2 cups split red lentils, cooked in chicken stock
olive oil to sprinkle
juice of 1/2 lemon
fresh black pepper to taste
handful rocket/arugula
Melt the butter in a heavy frying pan and saute the chicken livers gently until JUST cooked. Meanwhile, cook the bacon until JUST cooked but not crisp. Cut each bacon slice in half. Wrap each chicken liver half in half a piece of bacon and secure with a toothpick. Divide the livers and bacon over mounds of the red lentils, then drizzle over a bit of olive oil and a sprinkle of lemon juice, then black pepper. Garnish with the greens.
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My dear friend Elspeth was kind enough to test this salad for me, and while we both felt it was very enjoyable as simple as it was, you could certainly gussy it up a bit with some diced red onion or sliced scallion, a bit of feta crumbled over, or a few slices of sauteed halloumi, even a handful of chopped parsley or a bit of basil.
I ran out of livers before I could try my final recipe, traditional Passover chopped liver, with plenty of schmaltz and chopped hard-boiled eggs. Can you imagine, running through nearly 3 pounds of chicken livers? I can, now, and I can tell you I would start over right now, if I had a tub of them to hand.
As it does every year, the mention of Passover makes me think of my dear New York chum Alyssa, and the Passover feasts to which we used to be invited. To reciprocate, of course, we invited them to dye eggs with us, and every year it’s a bit of a wrench not to be together. But again, Elspeth came to the rescue and joined us for a festive and sunny afternoon. With four dozen eggs.
What fun we had! Of course there are only brown eggs here, which means the colours are not quite the vibrant, almost neon colours of American eggs. But we persevered.
I had bought something called “dye gel” in the baking aisle at the grocery store, to supplement our plain old food-colouring (the whole egg-dyeing racket has not really caught on over here). It turns out “dye gel” might be just the ticket to turn your cream-cheese frosting a pretty colour for your cupcakes, but it doesn’t work for dyeing Easter eggs. Unless you’re Avery, of course, with the imagination of a French Revolutionary terrorist.
Who would have dreamed that my little girl, with the face of an angel, could think of such a thing? Pre-exam stress might be getting to her, just a bit. Good to let off some steam on an Easter egg.
This morning, of course, brought the Easter bunny, while I was out in the rain ringing my bells.
Another festive season has come and gone, leaving us to contemplate the return of Avery to school next week (always a wrench) and then the usual joys and sorrows of the Summer Term — the final Lost Property luncheon of the year, for one thing, leaving me just a term in which to find my replacement. It breaks my heart to think of leaving Lost Property behind, but the time is swiftly approaching. Avery too faces a hurdle: the first of the truly awesome A‑level exams which will be her calling card to her university choices.
Perhaps we’ll need another kilo of chicken livers to get us through.
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