the new nest
Our nest is different, that’s for certain. It doesn’t feel empty, quite, but it’s a new feeling.
Avery’s gone off to Oxford, finally, after so many months of anticipation!
Just over a week ago, we packed up a rental car with loads of carefully-filled luggage and drove the surprisingly short distance up the motorway, to arrive under perfectly blue skies and autumnal, crispy air. It was just as beautiful as we hoped, and Avery settled in very easily, into dappled loveliness.
With surprisingly little fuss, all her belongings floated into place in her college rooms. She seemed to have been there forever, really.
I will admit that it felt very odd to drive away leaving her there, but as the miles went by and we talked about how we were feeling, it was with a completely positive mood. After all, her being there is something she’s worked extremely hard for, and the new chapter has begun. It helps that Oxford is simply breathtaking. Avery sent this photo to us last night, of her quad.
It’s wonderful to think of her walking from place to place in Oxford, soaking in this atmosphere.
It’s definitely been for the best that John and I have more than enough on our plates to keep us busier than we really want to be. There is the house move, to be sure, which involves a seemingly endless parade of tasks, the latest being today’s venture into the dank, moldy, miserable basement — I will NOT miss having to descend into it! — to go through a simply towering stack of Christmas picture books, dusting them off and choosing which ones I really can’t live without.
The outlandish thing is that there is another stack just as tall that my favorite toddler twins are taking home with them this afternoon! How on earth did we amass such a collection? Because our entire lives with Avery have been defined by BOOKS! Never mind, hours of holiday bliss are collected between the covers of these lovely tomes, and the memories will remain intact. I personally plan to leaf through each and every one, in our new home, this holiday season.
Unbelievably, two weeks from today the movers arrive to do their best/worst to pack us up in two days, then the following two days they unpack us in SE1, to our eventual delight, I’m sure. We are taking absolutely nothing with us that we don’t love, and actually some wonderful things will be coming out of storage to join us, no doubt feeling quite new and exciting — a rug, a bench, possibly a sofa bought months ago at auction and nearly forgotten. What fun that will be!
Because I’m me, lots of my time has been happily spent with my new Home-Start family, which for reasons of obvious confidentiality I can’t tell you anything about, except that I’m safe saying it’s a very small baby, and a mum who is a fabulous, fantastic cook and has been generously teaching me her time-honoured, passed-down-by-mum recipes. I give you quite simply the most authentic, heavenly lentil dish you will ever taste.
Tarka Daal
(serves lots, perhaps 6–8)
about 1 cup/250 grams orange, yellow or brown lentils
about 3 cups water
1 medium tomato
1 medium onion
3 cloves garlic
1 heaping tsp ground coriander
1 heaping tsp ground cumin
1 heaping tsp ground turmeric
1 heaping tsp chili powder
1 heaping tsp garam masala
1/2 cup/125 ml vegetable oil
1 medium onion, roughly sliced
3 cloves garlic, chopped fine
1 medium tomato
sea salt and fresh black pepper to taste
1/2 cup/125 ml plain yoghurt
fresh coriander/cilantro leaves to garnish
Pour the lentils into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and cover with water. You may need more water as they cook down. Into the lentils, coarsely chop the tomato, onion and garlic. My friend does this with a small, sharp knife, right from her hand into the pot. Sprinkle with all the spices. Bring to a simmer and cook until soft, adding more water if needed, about 30 minutes. Make sure the lentils are truly soft.
While they are cooking, heat the oil in a frying pan till very hot, then add the onions and garlic and fry until brown. This is absolutely crucial — continue to cook them past the level you would for any other recipe, except perhaps a biryani. They need to be fried nearly crisp, and you will find that they begin to stick together in clumps. This is perfect.
Now add them to the simmered lentils.
As the oily onions and garlic hit the wet lentils, they will make a crackling sound, very satisfying, which the Pakistanis believe mimics the sound of firecrackers, and the Urdu word for firecracker is “Tarka.” Hence “Tarka Daal,” since “Daal” is Urdu for “lentils.”
Stir thoroughly and add the second tomato. Cook just a bit. Season well and stir in half the yogurt. Serve topped with the remaining yogurt and the cilantro.
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This dish is simply heavenly! So complex, so satisfying with a roasted chicken, a nice piece of fish, or with a fried egg on top and more crispy onions… the possibilities are endless! Of course my friend serves it with a nice chicken curry and boiled rice, which is a very good thing to do.
We have been having such fun together, learning from each other, taking a very long bus ride to the nearest halal shop to buy all the spices I need, plus special pickled mangoes, potato pancakes, and baklawa to assuage the taste Avery acquired in Greece. I’ll have to take some more to her when we visit.
Bell-ringing has been going quite well, with Plain Bob nearly under my belt. How I love the bellchamber with its humorous windows shining in the sun.
As is usual the second weekend of October, we bell-ringers took over the stocking and running of the church Coffee Shop on Saturday. I baked! Lemon polenta cake with blueberries, chocolate chip fudge cake.
At the same time a Ringing Training Session took place in the bellchamber, filled to the brim with teachers and learners.
I spent the whole day in the church, feeling as usual that I was in an Agatha Christie novel minus the dead body (so far), serving coffee, greeting the twins and their beautiful mum, when they came by for chocolate cake and a spot of gardening.
John popped in — looking as out of place amongst the ringers eating lunch as would a golden retriever amongst a gaggle of geese! — to confer on the ingredients for the meatloaf I was planning for dinner. One of the few benefits to Avery’s absence is the freedom to eat whatever we like, even if it’s not her favorite.
Meatloaf, ah, I’ve missed you. This recipe is inspired by the divine David Rosengarten, author of the Dean and Deluca Cookbook from our halcyon New York City days. I’ve replaced the dried herbs with fresh, and added a bit of cottage cheese, plus I always grind my own meat, and I’ve replaced all-beef with a trio of meats.
Perfect Soft-and-Moist Meatloaf
(serves 6)
1 pound/450 grams beef chuck (or rump or chump)
1/2 pound/225 grams lamb neck fillet, or lamb steaks
1/2 pound/225 grams pork shoulder or fatty chops
3 cups/5 slices/180 grams bread (David uses white; I used granary)
1 egg
2/3 cup/155 ml milk
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 3/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
dash fresh ground nutmeg
handful basil leaves, cut into ribbons
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 stalks celery with leaves, finely chopped
handful flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
12 rashers bacon, lightly browned and chopped roughly
1/2 cup/100 grams cottage cheese, small curd
Cut the meats into chunks of about 2 inches, trimmed of excess fat (but leave some). Pass through your grinder, alternating the meats so they mix loosely. Set aside.
Combine the bread and milk, then beat the egg lightly and add to the mix. Leave for a minute or so, then stir to break up the bread quite finely. Add all the other ingredients and mix well. Mix into meats until fully integrated, then pat into a buttered loaf pan. As David says, a loaf pan (rather than simply mounding the mixture in a dish) allows only the top to brown and the rest is soft and comforting.
Bake at 350F/180C for 55 minutes, then let rest for five minutes before slicing. This meatloaf is perfect with a pale gravy, such you might have leftover from roasting a chicken. Mashed potatoes a MUST.
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The evening of The Divine Meatloaf, a lovely local man came to buy Avery’s bed, which we had undressed during the day. He and John toiled up and down the stairs from the top of the house to the hallway, carrying bits and pieces. I stood in the door making sure Tacy didn’t escape. It was an unforgettable autumnal moment — the intensely nostalgic aroma of the meatloaf stealing through the house, the dry leaves swooping down the pavement, tall trees rustling in the wind, the bed going to a new home. Avery will have the guest bed now, which began its life as her little-girl bed. Full circle.
The next morning, after ringing for services, I made my way to Gloucester Road to meet up with the incomparable Silver Fox (my pal Rosie), and our partner-in-crime, the heavenly Sam. We shared rather a disgusting brunch — how DOES one partly overcook a poached egg whilst leaving the white still liquid? Never mind. We were together.
We meandered over to the Brompton Ceremony, where members of the Banks family that Rosie studies at Kingston Lacy are buried.
“So, Rosie, where are the graves?” Sam asked, looking around at the ivy-covered stones and monuments, under a brilliant blue sky.
“Mmm, not exactly sure,” Rosie murmured, almost as if she were trying not to be heard.
“You mean, they could be anywhere?” I asked, looking with a bit more attention at the expansive grounds.
“Well, yes, but it’s only 39 acres,” Rosie assured us, “and something tells me we’ll just COME upon them.”
Readers, we did not. But that didn’t spoil our fun on a glorious fall day, kicking leaves under our feet, enjoying the numberless paeans of praise to this or that Fanny, Amelia, Eliza Jane and Septimus.
We meandered here, wandered there, chatted about food, Avery, Sam’s career plans, Rosie’s plans to come back with a location (!) for her graves. Suddenly Rosie stopped in her tracks.
“Look, a stoat, rushing through the underbrush! Oh, no, it’s a squirrel.” (Deep disappointment.)
“Rosie, in what universe would there be a stoat just running wild in a cemetery?”
“Well, the sign said that it’s a very welcoming habitat for hundreds of species.”
“Very possibly, but BIRDS, and RODENTS. Not small pigs!”
[Author’s note: it has been pointed out to me by a loyal reader that I was thinking of a SHOAT. Like this.
A STOAT is this, much more likely to be haunting the cemetery:
And I REALLY WANT ONE.]
Finally we gave in and realised the Bankses were not going to pop and say, “We’re here!” and we decided to leave their discovery for another day. We parted at the bus stop, as usual reluctant to say goodbye. Until next time, my friends.
Late afternoon saw me at one of my favorite events: ringing for Choral Evensong, on an autumn Sunday when 5:30 is just beginning to feel like evening, a bit crisp, with a hint of woodsmoke in the air. I pedalled along the quietening High Street, peppered with parents toting weary children along the lovely village road. What a beautiful place to live.
We gathered to ring, listening to the choir practicing. My fellow ringers, and my beloved vicar, are some of my very favorite people.
“Why the photographs, Kristen?” Giles asks (he’s the chap on the right, the perfect English gentleman).
“Because I’m leaving.”
“Oh, come now, you’re not going THAT far.”
But he, Richard and Trisha posed for me, indulgently. And then we rang. Not brilliantly, but we rang.
Which is a fair attitude these days to life with all its joys and changes. We do it. Not always brilliantly, but we do it. And in the back of our minds, we know Avery is happy, and sending us photographs, and that’s all that really matters.
Sweetheart, a stoat isn’t a pig, its a short tailed weasel, they weigh less than a steak in the US. It was probably a rat.
OMG, I’ve been thinking of a SHOAT all this time! Rosie, you should have smacked me! I love the idea of weighing a weasel in comparison with a steak! Thank you, Fiona. Shame on me!
I wanted to use a size you would understand — I didn’t think under 300g would mean anything to you x
After all I’ve suffered for British weights on my cookbook?! I am the master. But this was very helpful. x
You should definitely have a stoat, I believe–yes, and maybe even a shoat! One you could cuddle and one you could eat. Oh, for the want of a single letter …
John’s Mom, smiling
Addendum …
Yes, John is like a golden retriever but your fellow ringers are certainly not to be compared to a gaggle of geese. I have met them. Certainly not!
John’s Mom, still smiling
And then there is Avery’s photo, the last one you posted. Couldn’t you just walk down that street, the perspective interrupted only by the bit of a bicycle wheel? Absolutely lovely.
John’s Mom, impressed and smiling again
“Santa Calls” That book always makes me cry. And I saw many more in your stack that I’ve been unable to part with. Best of luck with the rest of the packing.
No wonder you imploded. Still, wild boar once roamed free. King Henry VIII’s stomach and arteries were witness to that. I’m sure if SHOAT had been on the menu, he would have devoured the dainty morsel as a petit fours afterthought. xx
Thank you so much for being part of my weekend and sclepping all the way over to Gloucester Road to indulge me in my passion.
Oh, John’s mom, how I wish you’d been here to accompany Avery to her new digs… and maybe we could lay our hands on a stoat or shoat for her birthday? NY Sarah, “Santa Calls” is a heavenly book. Do you know “When It Snowed That Night”? Heartbreakingly beautiful, especially “The Queens Came Late,” all about the perspective of the wives of the Three Kings on Christmas Eve. Rosie, Silver Fox, a recipe for slow-braised shoat is surely to be in Volume II of my cookbook. With badger sauce, to be sure.
Best part at the end…and Avery is happy.
Avery, you have a very good eye for what is evocative and beautiful. That last photo, I wish I had taken it.
xxx,
Nonna
Love you guys. xx