The Twelve Days of Christmas, Red Gate Farm style
When we planned to spend “twelve days of Christmas” here in Connecticut, I never dreamed they would fly by like cartoon days off a calendar. From the moment we arrived on the night of the 18th, we have been running around like mad people, simultaneously creating and trying to run from an avalanche of wrapping, food-shopping, cooking, hostessing and guesting.
First up on the agenda, however, after we lugged in our suitcases and greeted Rosemary who had arrived two days before, was a quick look at the cookbook, which I must tell you is even more beautiful than I expected.
Avery and I flicked through it a bit anxiously. “I hate that photo,” Avery said about a couple of them, and we realised that as the autumn progressed, she had had far too much of her own real life to be able to make final decisions about the book. A shame, but it couldn’t be helped. And of course the rest of us can find no fault with her work.
It’s just heavy enough, weighty and significant and velvety and smooth. We feel very proud, and everyone who comes over to visit gets to hold it and leaf through it. To think in January, 1000 of them will find their way out into the world.
I spent one long afternoon with John learning how to send out the e‑book.
But Christmas waits for no man, especially not one with an inappropriately prideful joy in her own creation. I’m not sure which I’m prouder of: Avery or the book, and maybe they can’t really be separated, for me.
On the first morning, of course, we popped over to Judy’s brother’s farm to get our two trees, fragrant things of beauty so different from their fiendishly non-smelling British counterparts. Judy’s sister-in-law greeted us. “Hi there! Welcome home; I have your wreaths and garland all saved for you over here.” She explained that there is a new hybrid tree called the “Frasam” or “Balser,” she couldn’t remember which, with delicate needles and a heady piney aroma. They were perfect.
“What a beautiful job you have here,” I marvelled, “surrounded by this incredible smell all day long, all season long.”
“Really?” our helper mused. “I can’t really smell it anymore. I think I develop a, what do you call it, immunity. But I’m glad you’re enjoying it.”
It was such fun to open the dusty boxes of ornaments, brought up from the scary and hideous basement (“I’m NEVER going down there,” Avery says firmly, and I’d love to say the same). Glittering treasures, new and old, greeted us with gentle reminiscences as they do every year.
I described finding this last little fellow, a one-of-a-kind creation from the amazing craftsmen at Bombki, at the incomparably festive “Spirit of Christmas” fair at Olympia in London. “We should all go together sometime,” I suggested, and John promptly said, “That sounds very dangerous.”
All this loot was the bounty of our traditional trip to Walgreen’s to see what the American Mercantile Industrial Complex has dreamed up in the way of festive giftwrap. Cheap and cheerful is the way to go, we discovered, and brought everything home in the damp fog, to search through the house for sticky tape — we had 8 rolls stashed about — and scissors — not nearly enough. “Don’t come in here!” one or other other of us spent several days shouting, or “You can walk through this room, but QUICKLY and don’t look around you!” Finally all was in readiness under the tree.
And look what greeted us in the morning!
It lasted only a few hours, less than a day really, but the feeling of mindless, childlike festivity that it roused in me reminded me what Christmas is really all about: sheer joy of that kind that makes you smile even when you can’t really explain why.
“You know what?” I asked John. “Nothing makes me happier than snow. Except maybe kittens.” “Oh, God,” was his only reply.
At Christmastime, even a bad thing pales in significance compared to the joys, so when one afternoon I had a dreadful stomachache, it was almost a pleasure to give in to it and sit quietly on the sofa, with a hot water bottle and a throw over my knees, watching John and Rosemary scramble eggs and assemble smoked salmon and bagels for their dinner, with Avery adding judicious helping hands. Is there anything more important to appreciate, and easier to take for granted than good health and loved family members? When you spend as much time apart from your mother-in-law as I do, it’s a life lesson to remember that when she’s within reach, it’s a gift. And that’s what Christmas provides, for me.
Family and friends within reach explode into chaos at Red Gate Farm at Christmas! Jill and her rambunctious, festive family arrived in a torrential rainstorm on Christmas Eve, followed shortly by Anne-From-Across-the-Road and her family, and with oyster stew and Joel’s famous pulled pork on the menu, I somehow decided that as well, we should invent some wontons, or “wantons” as I’ve decided to call them since they were spelled that way on a restaurant menu in London. After all, our family tradition when we were children was to order Chinese food on Christmas Eve. How hard could they be? Not hard at all, as it turns out, and a tremendous lot of fun. When I get back to London, I’ll try them again and produce a more official recipe, but for the time being, I give you:
Christmas Eve Wantons
(makes at least 2 dozen)
1.5 lb chicken breasts
1 tbsp peanut oil
2 bunches spring onions
2 handfuls bean sprouts
2 handfuls shredded carrots
2 cups shredded Chinese cabbage, separated into two piles
1‑inch knob ginger, peeled and grated (not finely chopped)
2 cloves garlic, grated (not finely chopped)
juice of 1 lime
2 tbsps oyster sauce
oil for frying (either in deep frying pan or deep fryer)
24 square wonton wrappers
Put the chicken breasts through a grinder or pulse in a food processor until the size of small pebbles, then saute in the peanut oil until cooked thoroughly. Clean the grinder or processor and pass through the chicken again to make uniform pieces. Place in a large bowl.
Add all the vegetables, but only half the Chinese cabbage. Sprinkle over the ginger and garlic and lime juice, then stir through the oyster sauce and set in refrigerator until wanted. When ready to fry, add the remaining Chinese cabbage and stir well.
Heat oil to readiness.
For each wonton, place about a tablespoon of the chicken mixture in the center, then moisten edges with water on your fingertip and fold over edges to make a triangular parcel. Bring point together and press until stuck together. Fry for about 2 minutes, turning once if in frying pan. Drain on paper towel and serve right away, with any sauces you like: sweet and sour, spicy mayo, peanut sauce.
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The girls graciously posed for one moment, before the little ones resumed their frantic race around our tiny house, pausing now and then to pound on the piano keys.
Christmas Eve wouldn’t be the same unless John made Molly cry, so he duly did, squeezing the life out of her, upside down. “Too tight, Uncle John, too tight!” Mommy comforts her. Very soon after, “More, Uncle John, more!”
Jane loves to see Molly cry, in her big-sister fashion. How well I remember it, the being-a-big-sister thing.
Kate always begins her evenings with Jane and Molly looking horrified at the mayhem, but then begins to smile admiringly.
Finally, she is firmly part of the clan.
We passed the wantons around and listened to Christmas carols in the background as we told stories about our various autumns, tried to keep John from killing the children, looked through the cookbook. Finally we trooped to the table for oyster stew, pulled pork and cole slaw.
Every bite was sublime, but really, surpassed by the simple happiness of having my family — some born, some brought in by marriage, some by neighborliness — around me.
No time at Red Gate Farm passes without my feeling grateful at the fates that placed Anne and her family “across the road.”
We tucked into Anne’s beautiful German cookie display.
Finally everyone called “good night” and braved the awful, cold rain, which had prevented our traditional lighting of the Victorian candles on the hydrangea. “It’s too cold and rainy to go light them, and they will just go out in an instant anyway,” we agreed, but it was a bit sad.
The next day, Christmas Day, more than made up for this. Bright blue skies, crunchy frosty grass. We opened our presents in a leisurely fashion, enjoying every creative present, then cooked like CRAZY — stuffing, cheesy spinach, pumpkin pie — and motored — with “Cabin Pressure” to entertain us, especially, “Get Dressed, Ye Merry Gentlemen” — to Jill’s house. The kitchen smelled incredibly of roasting turkey, baking cheesy potatoes with celery soup and sour cream. Merriment ensued. Avery was given, memorably, a piggy bank labeled “Capitalist Pig.” “Do you know what Capitalism is, Jane?” she asked. “OF COURSE I do!” Jane answered indignantly. “I’m not dumb! It’s when the first letter of a sentence is bigger than all the rest!”
There were thumbhole running clothes!
Red sweaters!
Jammies! With feet.
Perhaps best of all, the bag that IS Joel’s, because it is not… John’s. Now it’s all clear.
The table was set by the local reindeer and elves…
Turkey, gravy, stuffing, cheesy spinach, cheesy potatoes, green beans, then pumpkin and apple pies, cookies made by the girls… we were sated.
Home late through the starry night, everyone to bed, except me, who stayed up late and took pictures of everything beautiful that I wanted to remember.
Waking up this morning, I thought more and more about the brevity of our time here, how much I love all the images I will take away from our holiday.
Favorite presents from this Christmas, all these treasured things to put away for next year. How can I wait a year to use this beauty?
As I walk through the house, inhaling the precious aroma of balsam, Fraser, whatever amalgam has created the magic of this year, I wish aloud, “I want it to be Christmas all year long. Why shouldn’t I have you all around me, and this heavenly fragrance, all year long?”
Avery listens, and considers. “I’ll tell you why. It’s exactly what the tree-selling lady said. She becomes immune to the aroma.”
How very true. If we were allowed to have our families, and our gorgeous ornaments, and our beautiful trees, around us all the time, they would lose their power. It’s meant to be just once a year, so we can still appreciate it all. Or so I tell myself, to explain why life can’t be this perfect all year long.
More to the point: all the ingredients for life being this perfect all year long are in place all the time. I just need to learn to sniff, and appreciate them.
Merry Christmas, all…
Love the story you just told of our Christmas ” present” but I can’t quite fathom how it has gone so quickly. There were so many traditions to fit in and people to engage that it has gone by in wink of an eye, or so it seems. But it was wonderful! And, as it turns out, it isn’t over yet–I am so looking forward to tomorrow.
xx, John’s Mom
So, so very happy to have you here as an irreplaceable part of it all! And yes, tomorrow… will be great fun! xxx
I absolutely loved reading about your Christmas despite not knowing the majority of players. As always a wonderful time spent on your blog. See you soon I hope. Xx
Maria, your Tod boots were among my favorite presents! Yes, please let’s make a plan to see each other soon. xx